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  1. #1

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    Problem with my FM2

    Hello All,

    My FM2 has developed a problem - all shutter speeds 1/60 and over are fine, all shutter speeds 1/30 and under cause the shutter to stay open and the mirror to stay up. The only way to close the shutter is to move the speed dial above 1/60. Odd. Rotten luck also as my wife is due to give birth next week and this is my main camera. Grrrr. Had this camera since new in 1997.

    Anyone ever heard of this problem?
    Obviously it needs repair so I'd love recommendations for a good UK based Nikon repairer.

    Thanks!
    Steve.

  2. #2

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    Problem seems to be getting progressively worse: now 1/60 and 1/125 are sticking. I think I'm going to stop playing with it, I'm making it worse.
    Steve.

  3. #3
    fstop's Avatar
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    Does it look like there is any black substance on the shutter front or rear? Your camera is old enough to seals begin to go bad, a little bit of mirror damper foam can gum up the shutter.

  4. #4

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    No, nothing like that. It's actually very clean inside.
    Steve.

  5. #5
    Carl V's Avatar
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    I doubt if they'd be able to do anything by next week, but I would recommend a repairers called Newton Ellis in Liverpool. I had a couple of cameras (both Nikon) and a lens repaired there not long ago and they did a good job. They will also change the light seals if required.

    http://www.newtonellis.com

    http://www.newtonellis.com/nikon/index.html


    Just as an added note, as 'fstop' has mentioned, your camera is about 14 years old so this may be a good time to change the seals anyway. Although they may not be letting any light through at the moment, they'll probably feel sticky when you touch it and this is a sign they're on their way out.
    Last edited by Carl V; 10-13-2011 at 05:39 AM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: Adding a sentence
    Carl.

  6. #6
    David Lyga's Avatar
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    What I would do (and please do not ruin your camera because of my advice taken wrongly) is this: I would open the bottom being careful to gather all the screws carefully in a container. Then I would turn the camera body so that the bottom faces upward. Then I would tilt the camera slightly so that the right side is slightly lower. (The purpose for the tilting is to prevent ready access for the fluid to get into the prism area.) Then I would squirt about 2 ml of lighter fluid in the bottom. The IMPORTANT thing here is NOT to get any fluid into the prism area. Then quickly turn the camera body so the bottom faces downward and see the black fluid drain.

    Oftentimes, mechanical gears gum up. This is really a simple task and should be repeated until the fluid stops being black. I have done this with with countless mechanical cameras and will usually great results. But, don't get any fluid into the prism area. Your objective is to wet the escape mechanism so that its delicate movement is unrestricted. - David Lyga
    Last edited by David Lyga; 10-13-2011 at 07:42 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  7. #7

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    I'm not sure if the FM2 needs battery power to actuate the shutter, but just in case I'd try a fresh battery.

  8. #8
    CGW
    CGW is offline

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    Quote Originally Posted by David Lyga View Post
    What I would do (and please do not ruin your camera because of my advice taken wrongly) is this: I would open the bottom being careful to gather all the screws carefully in a container. Then I would turn the camera body so that the bottom faces upward. Then I would tilt the camera slightly so that the right side is slightly lower. (The purpose for the tilting is to prevent ready access for the fluid to get into the prism area.) Then I would squirt about 2 ml of lighter fluid in the bottom. The IMPORTANT thing here is NOT to get any fluid into the prism area. Then quickly turn the camera body so the bottom faces downward and see the black fluid drain.

    Oftentimes, mechanical gears gum up. This is really a simple task and should be repeated until the fluid stops being black. I have done this with with countless mechanical cameras and will usually great results. But, don't get any fluid into the prism area. Your objective is to wet the escape mechanism so that its delicate movement is unrestricted. - David Lyga
    Guess this explains why so many old cameras at swap meets reek of Ronsonol...and still don't work.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by CGW View Post
    Guess this explains why so many old cameras at swap meets reek of Ronsonol...and still don't work.
    LMAO. Hilarious comment. LOL.

  10. #10
    brucemuir's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brofkand View Post
    I'm not sure if the FM2 needs battery power to actuate the shutter, but just in case I'd try a fresh battery.
    FM2/FM2n does not need battery power for the shutter.
    Battery is for meter only

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