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  1. #1

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    Nikon FE eyepiece question

    Hi,

    I have an OEM rubber eyepiece for my Nikon FE, which I like because I wear glasses and it protects them from scratches.

    The problem is that it also blocks the back, so I need to unscrew it every time I change a roll of film which is a pain.

    Are there any alternatives that would allow the back opening as well as protect my glasses? (note that using diopters and leaving my glasses off is not an option)

    I don't think even trimming it down would work because the metal part of the eyepiece that holds the rubber on extends too low as well.

    Any ideas?

    Thanks,

    Mark

  2. #2

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    If the rubber is glued to the metal rim, you can trim the rubber and file the flange off that interferes with the door. Is that the proper eyepiece for the camera, or just one that has the same screw thread.

    Maybe you want this one http://www.adorama.com/NKDK3.html
    Bob

  3. #3

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    I use that DK3 and the door of my FM2 opens easily with it in place as the rubber is chamfered away at the bottom. You do have to push the eyepiece inward when closing the door to stop it getting trapped.
    Steve.

  4. #4

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    Thanks guys. I was told by the guy who sold me the camera that the eye cup was OEM, but I'm now thinking it's aftermarket. I'll order the DK3.

    Thanks again,

    Mark

  5. #5
    CGW
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    I've had and lost several eyecups on FE/FM and F3 bodies. Because they're large and grippy, they tend to unscrew themselves when the camera's carried over my shoulder. For the FE, the small(and ridiculously pricey) rubber-rimmed standard eyepiece protects my glasses--and stays put. Most used FE/FM variants I see tend to be missing these.

  6. #6

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    The DK-3 rubber eyecup has a metal ring embedded at the front for the eyepiece to grip as it clamps the eyecup to the viewfinder.

    The bottom of the eyecup is pushed to flex it upward with a finger to clear the back as you open or close the film door.

    It’s important to orient the eyecup with the cutout facing the film door (facing down). You can see the cutout facing downward in this photo.

    http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search...tialSearch=yes

    To orient the eyecup properly requires that you test it. You’ll see that the friction of fully tightening the eyepiece grabs the eycup and forces it to rotate the eyecup clockwise about the same angle ɵ each time.

    By noting this angle and initially positioning the eyecup ɵ° counterclockwise as the eyepiece begins to forcefully grip the eyepiece, you’ll end up with a fully tightened eyepiece with the eyecup rotated into proper position with the clearance cutout at the bottom. This makes it easy to flex the eyepiece upward and out of the way for the film door.

    It’s much easier to do than to describe.

  7. #7

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    I've never liked eye cups. The original-equipment stock eye piece is this one:

    http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...ce_for_FM.html

    They can be sourced from B&H or other places too.

  8. #8

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    P.S. this is the small and rediculously expensive item that CGW mentioned. I check mine periodiucally to make sure that they are screwed in. They are, indeed, small and rediculously expensive... but the best option in my experience.

  9. #9
    CGW
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrianShaw View Post
    P.S. this is the small and rediculously expensive item that CGW mentioned. I check mine periodiucally to make sure that they are screwed in. They are, indeed, small and rediculously expensive... but the best option in my experience.
    At one of Toronto's semi-annual swap meets, I recently found a dude selling NOS Nikon bits cheap. He had five of these eyepieces for 2 bucks each and several FE/FM grid+spot screens for 5. Twenty bucks bought a whole lotta satisfaction. Deals like that convince me I did something right in a previous life.

  10. #10

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    nice find!

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