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  1. #11
    lxdude's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Diapositivo View Post
    Accurately cleaning the contacts between pentaprism and body could be another useful attempt.
    There are no contacts between the body and finder-the electronics are all in the body, and the information is conveyed optically.
    I do use a digital device in my photographic pursuits when necessary.
    When someone rags on me for using film, I use a middle digit, upraised.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by fstop View Post
    I agree and turn the power switch off and on a few times to wipe the contacts.
    Do you mean the shutter button lock? I don't think that's a switch; I think it blocks the contacts under the button. But I could be wrong. Wouldn't hurt to do it anyway. Voltage problems could arise from other points like the ISO dial or aperture resistor, but I'm not sure that would affect the readout in the way described.

    It's possible that carefully removing and putting back the display could improve things. Best to remove the batteries before doing it.

    If its still not bright enough just get another finder.
    The readout on mine was not very clear. I removed the top of the finder and could see the long rectangular mirror was dirty. I cleaned all the mirrors and glass surfaces. The display looked great after that. It seems like the problem is intermittent, so probably this will not help, but I did find that my exact eye position made a difference before I cleaned it.
    I do use a digital device in my photographic pursuits when necessary.
    When someone rags on me for using film, I use a middle digit, upraised.

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by lxdude View Post
    Do you mean the shutter button lock? I don't think that's a switch; I think it blocks the contacts under the button. But I could be wrong. Wouldn't hurt to do it anyway. Voltage problems could arise from other points like the ISO dial or aperture resistor, but I'm not sure that would affect the readout in the way described.

    It's possible that carefully removing and putting back the display could improve things. Best to remove the batteries before doing it.



    The readout on mine was not very clear. I removed the top of the finder and could see the long rectangular mirror was dirty. I cleaned all the mirrors and glass surfaces. The display looked great after that. It seems like the problem is intermittent, so probably this will not help, but I did find that my exact eye position made a difference before I cleaned it.
    The shutter lock button is actually a switch but that would not be the symptom. If the lock switch doesn't make it prevents the shutter release button to make contact and the meter would not turn on at all. After the meter is on, the meter stays on for the 16 sec regardless of whether the lock switch is on or off.

  4. #14
    AgX
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    I once was successful in regaining electrical contact between a flexible-printed-curcuit and an LCD by local heat application.

  5. #15
    fstop's Avatar
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    Nikon refers to it as power switch and it doesn't lock anything.

  6. #16
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    Right you are, thanks. I should have put quotes around the word "lock"-the button can still be depressed. Also after looking at a diagram it does appear to be a switch and not what I thought it was.
    I do use a digital device in my photographic pursuits when necessary.
    When someone rags on me for using film, I use a middle digit, upraised.

  7. #17
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    No problem, odd one of the few Nikon factory service manauls I don't have is for the F3, gonna have to get one.

  8. #18

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    Bob

  9. #19

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    buying a new top might be cheaper than a repair these days.

  10. #20
    CGW
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    Quote Originally Posted by modernmartyr View Post
    buying a new top might be cheaper than a repair these days.
    New top??? The LCD is in the F3 body, not the finder.

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