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  1. #41
    Rol_Lei Nut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CGW View Post
    That's your tough luck. If film choice narrows to off brands only it will be due to demand collapsing below where it's teetering today.

    BTW, we're talking about Nikons and Nikon parts supplies.
    LOL!!! I haven't used Kodak for years *BY PREFERENCE*!
    Getting it is no problem at all.

    About what you call "off brands": maybe try some before passing judgement.
    (No, definitely not your style...)

    You are the one who started talking about the supposed end of film.
    M6, SL, SL2, R5, P6x7, SL3003, SL35-E, F, F2, FM, FE-2, Varex IIa

  2. #42

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    Marcmarc, I'm certain if it can be broken on an F2 Sover Wong can fix it.
    I may just have to bust out my Nikon Repair manual and start learning how to get deep into the guts of the F3.

  3. #43

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    R.W. I recently posted a rather long summery in the repair forum of apug of my ordeal with getting a reliable F2. I know Sover has a excellent reputation and a lot of people have gotten years of use from their F2 after his servicing. I guess I just had the bad luck of getting a camera that was so used that even he couldn't get it working again. When my 2nd body recently started to malfunction, I considered sending it to him, but with the experience of the first body and the high shipping costs to the UK, I opted to get an F3 instead. I will most likely put up my two F2 bodies for sale for parts only cameras.

  4. #44

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    Yeah, I know what you mean. The first F2 I got was an epay special, it had been poorly repaired so the mirror box was off and so the focus was too. It had heavy wear on the motor drive coupling indicating lots of motordrive use (probably all the time) and the meter was a bit twitchy between 1/125 and 1/500, and along with the precision notch cut out of the film gate I concluded that it was a pro sports photographers former tool. After Soverization and a new Cameraleather dark green leather covering it continues to work beautifully, and that was 2004 or 05 that I did that. My next F2's came about by pure chance, someone gave me one and the other was part of a huge kit that I picked up for a good price. So, keep your eye out, once the F2 know about you they tend to follow you about

  5. #45
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    One way to gauge wear is to look at the pressure plate. Any visible wear is too high mileage for me. It's not foolproof on cameras with interchangeable backs, but it helps when evaluating a machine.
    I do use a digital device in my photographic pursuits when necessary.
    When someone rags on me for using film, I use a middle digit, upraised.

  6. #46
    CGW
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    Quote Originally Posted by lxdude View Post
    One way to gauge wear is to look at the pressure plate. Any visible wear is too high mileage for me. It's not foolproof on cameras with interchangeable backs, but it helps when evaluating a machine.
    Other mileage indices are fine scratches along the film contact areas of the black take-up reel and especially the drive sprocket.These take on a gray, foggy look from heavy use. Wear marks on the floor of the film chamber where the film can tip spins are another. Wear on the ISO # dial from the back's safety catch, sometimes making the ISO#s illegible, usually also points to heavy use. Same goes for missing paint from the shutter release collar, rewind knob, and edges of the film door(paint touch-ups are obvious).

  7. #47

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    Thanks folks for pointing out these items to look for. I have a replacement F3 on the way to use while KEH works on my first. After this, that's it for me as far as 35mm goes. I'll still shoot 120 film, but if I cannot get one of these four 35mm cameras I own to give me reliable service without having it have to be repaired every few months I'll have to go d$*ital for small camera use. I just cannot afford the cost of continual repairs and the frustration.

  8. #48
    Rol_Lei Nut's Avatar
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    Try a completely mechanical camera: no screens and fewer "features" in general which can go bad....
    M6, SL, SL2, R5, P6x7, SL3003, SL35-E, F, F2, FM, FE-2, Varex IIa

  9. #49
    CGW
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    Aside from the late model Nikon AF bodies, you might also look into the newest FM2n you can find. Though mechanical, they're not immune to breakdowns. I've never bothered with them since I'm not a fan of the LED meter read-out and found FEs to deliver much the same package for less $. The F90x/N90s and F100 are tough and deliver more flexibility for flash work than any of the older Nikon MF bodies.

    Film camera repairs will only become pricier and harder to find, so buy the newest you can afford and/or buy back-ups for models you like shooting.

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