Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 71,828   Posts: 1,582,146   Online: 1069
      
Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 32
  1. #11
    CGW
    CGW is offline

    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    2,797
    Quote Originally Posted by KanFotog View Post
    I just got one recently, and though the first roll of film hasn't come out yet, I can definitely say it feels fantastic to shoot with it.

    Having shot an F80 for almost a year I figured it's time to get more hands-on experience in terms of metering, focus etc.

    The one thing about FE that bugs me is I can't see the meter clearly when the scene is dim/dark. Especially if the meter-scale side of my finder has a dark object while the rest is quite reasonably bright.

    Since you guys have been shooting the FE for a while, would you say swapping the default K screen with K2 (from the FE2) would make it any easier to use? As I gather, it makes the finder bright and all you have to do is set a +0.5 compensation.

    Cheers,
    Som
    You'll see a slight but not dramatic increase in brightness. If anything, you might consider swapping the K screen for a matte B or matte+grid E screen. The split-image focus spot turns into a black hole with slower lenses and stop-down metering--really annoying for macro work when you check DOF.

  2. #12

    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Southeastern U.S.
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    550
    I love my two chrome FEs. Overall, they are my primary shooters. Indeed, they are as reliable as can be. The design and features suit me perfectly. I just love the one-switch operation with the venerable MD-11.

    A question for fellow FE users...I gather the FE/MD-11 setup requires the two 1.5-volt batteries in the camera? I did not notice this subject mentioned in the owner's manual, and so I thought I would ask.

  3. #13

    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Aurora, IL
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    1,982
    Yes! Unlike the F3 the FE (FE2, FM3a in auto) does require the batteries in camera to work.

  4. #14

    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    SW Florida
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    33
    I bought an FE in 1981 then added two chrome bodies a few years ago. I use K, K2, and K3 screens with these. Last year I got a very cheap Nikon EM from auction-site. Surprisingly f/3.5, f/4.5 lens focusing is easier than FE in this little body although fixed screen in EM should be equivalent to FE – K screen. My Nikon Em’s speed are not accurent in the slow side but doesn’t matter too much for street photography.

  5. #15
    kivis's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    South Florida
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    215
    Blog Entries
    1
    Images
    8
    Quote Originally Posted by al5256 View Post
    I bought an FE in 1981 then added two chrome bodies a few years ago. I use K, K2, and K3 screens with these. Last year I got a very cheap Nikon EM from auction-site. Surprisingly f/3.5, f/4.5 lens focusing is easier than FE in this little body although fixed screen in EM should be equivalent to FE – K screen. My Nikon Em’s speed are not accurent in the slow side but doesn’t matter too much for street photography.
    How is it that focusing is easier on the EM?
    Akiva S.

    Nikkormat FTN, Nikon F, Nikon FE, Leica M3

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/kshapero/

    My Blog



  6. #16
    CGW
    CGW is offline

    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    2,797
    Quote Originally Posted by al5256 View Post
    I bought an FE in 1981 then added two chrome bodies a few years ago. I use K, K2, and K3 screens with these. Last year I got a very cheap Nikon EM from auction-site. Surprisingly f/3.5, f/4.5 lens focusing is easier than FE in this little body although fixed screen in EM should be equivalent to FE – K screen. My Nikon Em’s speed are not accurent in the slow side but doesn’t matter too much for street photography.
    The FG is a sleeper that packs a lot features into Nikon's smallest ever film SLR. With 50mm and 100mm E series lenses, it's a great, almost pocket-size, outfit. Preferable to the EM.

  7. #17

    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    673
    For the way I use 35mm cameras the Nikon FE is the most bank-for-buck Nikon ever.

    The film speed is fast and easy to set as opposed to the tiny hard-to-see dull red dot that doesn’t contrast much relative to the surrounding material of the FE2 and FA. I also find adjusting the ASA on the FE camera faster and more intuitive than the “lift-and-turn” film speed adjustment of the newer Nikons.

    The meter comes on and stays on by moving the cocking lever back from its spring-retained storage position, unlike the meters on the FE2 and FA that must be switeched on by partially depressing the shutter release button and that wink out after 16 seconds (inconvenient at times).

    I also really appreciate the metering out to 8 seconds as it’s useful for early morning and late afternoon shooting in low light. That was especially appreciated with ASA 25 Kodachrome and Technical Pan and ASA 32 Panatomic-X in low light. The FE2 and F3 have the same long speeds, but the FA is limited to metering to 1 second—far too limiting for me.

    Yes, the F3 can be fired without batteries, but only at approximately 1/80 second—not terribly useful in most cases and that non-standard speed makes figuring exposure inconvenient (about 1/3 stop less than 1/60 second).

    I rarely use speeds faster than 1/1000 second so the FE is ideal for my 35mm shooting. The only thing I give up is the 1/250 second flash synch speed of the FE2 and FA. For the most part that’s not too limiting. I don’t find the lack of TTL flash control much of a hindrance. I’ve tested my sensor-controlled auto flashes with my Minolta Flashmeter IV and have been pleased with the accuracy of their light output.

    The small size and low weight of the FE is appreciated. That makes it a good choice for my backpack when cycling.

    The analog meter display is useful in that it can be read in fractional stops by estimating the distance above or below the nearest marked speed. That isn’t possible with the digital display of the FA and F3.

    Even now we can still find nearly pristine Nikon FE cameras and they’re often in excellent condition with “low miles.” Occasionally I find a pristine example at a modest price.

    For the sharpest possible shots, it’s hard to beat tripping the self timer. The aperture closes and the mirror snaps up simultaneously dumping all vibration at the start of the 10 second countdown. Then when the shutter fires, it’s soft and inconsequential to sharpness.

    All of these things make the FE one of the best camera values for the money and now they can be had at bargain prices.

  8. #18

    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    SW Florida
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    33
    Hi,
    The EM split image somehow has more tolerance to off-center placement of the eye when I use f/3.5 lenses. It has more tolerance than K screen on my oldest FE. K2 screen (needs +0.5 exposure compensation on FE) is very bright but split image darkens just like K screen. The split image on K3 (needs +0.5 exposure compensation on FE) never darkens but gets translucent when I use f/3.5-4.5 lenses.

    I bought a Nikon EM body for $10, it was fully functional except the slower speeds and the foam was really sticky. I changed foam using Mr. Goodman’s (Interslice) directions but the mirror damper foam placement is more difficult than an FE. I advise Nikon lovers to buy EM bodies otherwise they are going to trash in these days.

  9. #19

    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Calgary, AB, Canada
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    213
    I've had an FE for 30 years, always dependable. BobD is right about the non-AI metering. I have a 35mm PC, which is a pre-set (not automatic) lens, let alone a non-AI. Just stop it down to shooting aperture and there you go.

  10. #20
    CGW
    CGW is offline

    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    2,797
    Quote Originally Posted by tessar View Post
    I've had an FE for 30 years, always dependable. BobD is right about the non-AI metering. I have a 35mm PC, which is a pre-set (not automatic) lens, let alone a non-AI. Just stop it down to shooting aperture and there you go.
    The old 35/2.8 is an oddball lens. Though technically a NAI lens, the aperture ring is on its nose. They clear the AI tabs that other NAI lenses can't, making them useable on most F-mount bodies.

Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin