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  1. #11

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    I second what Rol_Lei nut said about developing your own, the equipment is minimal in amount and prie, there's plenty of tutorials on youtube and the internet in general. Plus you get to see your results straight away, and it's just so rewarding. I worked out that developing costs me around 60p per roll, thats uk money, probably around $1 which means more to spend on film too

    To answer your question, I use Ilford HP5 (400iso) if its cloudy or indoors and Ilford delta 100 when its sunny.

  2. #12
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by D-ray50 View Post
    I live in Indiana
    http://labwork-bw.com/main.htm

    It is in the next state, but I hear they do a good job.

    T-max 400 is a good film to use. Beginners tend to underexpose and the T-max 400 handles this the best.

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by kivis View Post
    I have found the meter on the FM to be quite accurate.
    I second that. If the meter on your FM works, you needn't bother with "forgiving" films, your exposures will be correct. BW400CN is an excellent film which your local labs can develop without screwing it up. I like Tri-X myself, but I do my own developing. If you end up shooting a lot, you should try developing your own film, it's not expensive to get started, you will get consistent results, and, once you have the basic equipment, the cost is very low. You can get everything you need for $50 if you shop around, including the chemicals.

  4. #14
    Rol_Lei Nut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sangetsu View Post
    I second that. If the meter on your FM works, you needn't bother with "forgiving" films, your exposures will be correct.
    My earlier recommendation for more "forgiving" films had nothing to do with the intrinsic accuracy of any given meter (including the camera's), but with learning how to meter different scenes and getting the most out of a meter in different situations.

    If the OP is only shooting evenly lit 18% grey cards and wants them to come out 18% grey, then my recommendation can be safely ignored...


    P:S. For years I used my FM's meter as a reference for adjusting others
    M6, SL, SL2, R5, P6x7, SL3003, SL35-E, F, F2, FM, FE-2, Varex IIa

  5. #15

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    I'm in agreement for Tri-X. When T films came out I switched to them for commercial work because the 400-speed film was equal to Plus-X in terms of quality, but for my own work I stuck with Tri-X. The T films are very fussy about development--don't pay attention, and they're off the map into yucko territory. Right now I'm messing around with Tri-X + Rodinal + stand development, and love the inattention I can bring to the task. That's what I'd recommend now to anyone who's just getting into film. Combine that with Ilford's new (to me) washing program, and I'm in hog heaven!

    A bottle of Rodinal, a tank and reels, and a syringe to measure the developer, plus some fix and a clock with an hour hand. I like that.

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by sangetsu View Post
    I second that. If the meter on your FM works, you needn't bother with "forgiving" films, your exposures will be correct. BW400CN is an excellent film which your local labs can develop without screwing it up. I like Tri-X myself, but I do my own developing. If you end up shooting a lot, you should try developing your own film, it's not expensive to get started, you will get consistent results, and, once you have the basic equipment, the cost is very low. You can get everything you need for $50 if you shop around, including the chemicals.
    Ill go ahead and third that. I am also using the Nikon FM and I've had awesome success with Kodak BW400CN. Since it is a chromogenic color print film it is developed using the C41 process whereas many local places cant develop Tri-X since it is a dedicated panchromatic film.

    If youre set on using pan film, I may also be bold enough to suggest Kodak 125PX. Its a slower film than the 400 speed of the BW400CN and (if you want) Tri-X but it looks really nice in my opinion.

    As far as the Nikon FM, the meter is really great, the ergonomics are fantastic, its an all around great camera. What color is yours?

  7. #17

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    Don't forget to get at least a yellow filter to use when shooting black and white. And I would look for an older cheap mf 50mm lens on the web to get a lens that will be more enjoyable to focus. I have used my 50 1.8 af on my manual nikon cameras in the past and it has driven me crazy.

  8. #18
    Rol_Lei Nut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tron_ View Post

    As far as the Nikon FM, the meter is really great, the ergonomics are fantastic, its an all around great camera. What color is yours?
    As long as a meter is reasonably accurate, the rest more due to preference, taste, experience and so on...
    The FM's meter, when working proprly, is very linear and accurate, but is really no more "great" than any other accurate center-weighted meter out there (and there are many!).
    The key is *learning how to use* a center-weighter (or averaging, or spot or incident or...) meter to the best effect. My recommendation for a "classic" B&W film isn't only for its relative "forgiveness", but also because you can easily learn to develop it yourself and add a whole new dimension to your photography.
    M6, SL, SL2, R5, P6x7, SL3003, SL35-E, F, F2, FM, FE-2, Varex IIa

  9. #19

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    I have used FM's for years. They are among the best, most reliable bodies ever produced by Nikon. You need to understand the nature of the meter, it is "cenre-weighted" designed to get the best results from black & white film, cutting out bright skylight from influencing meter readings. You may find with colour transparency, if you get round to using it, that it will benefit you to set the meter for about two thirds underexposure...i.e. a 100asa film to 160asa....this will give you richer colours and avoids slight overexposure, which often benefits black & white negative film, but not transparency

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