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Thread: QUESTIONS:

  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by jnanian View Post
    hi again

    i just realized it is a point + shoot camera with a built in flash, so you probably can't adjust your shutter speed or flash intensity or fstops, or over ride the pre set settings by faking a different asa/iso ...
    so, instead of having your camera set to " auto flash ( lightingbolt ) " have it set to " fill in" so it does just fill flash.
    you do this by pressing the lightening bolt button on your camera until it cycles through all the flash modes ( probably red eye, auto, none and fill flash )
    the fill flash mode will meter for ambient ambient light, and then add some extra flash ... it is probably the best mode to have a point/shoot camera.

    good luck !
    john

    hey - I'm not sure what camera that is LOL... I ouldnt think my camera is a point in shoot. you have to adjust everything :S unless you move the gizmo to automatique LOL.... Anyway I'll check out my camera, Im going to test out different rolls of film...
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    Mr. Andrew Mündenovskiy
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  2. #12

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    My Camera Pentax SF1N is currently loaded with 400iso film by Kodak (I think either that or Pharmaprix easypix... anyway)
    So I think I remember hearing someone say I should put my camera to 400ISO for this film right?

    And then I adjust the f-stop/aperture depending on lighting availability (assuming NO flash is to be used at all)
    Right?

    What is the EF+/- to do with a picture. + numbers make something more exposed. and -less exposed. I usually keep it at 0 or +0.5 for added contrast (Because I like deep rich contract in pictures) is this an error?
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    Mr. Andrew Mündenovskiy
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    "The the change you want to see in the world" -- Ghandi

  3. #13

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    According to some web searches I did, Pentax SF1n is an auto exposure capable SLR camera. If that is the case, I'd suggest setting camera's ISO to match the film. (that would be 400) Then set the camera to aperture priority mode, which would be "A", or in program mode "P" first. Then, set the aperture somewhere that will keep your shutter speed above 1/60s or so. Once this is done, camera itself will measure the amount of light available and set the shutter speed automatically.

    EF+- probably is exposure compensation. Don't mess with those, yet. Keep it at zero. It has nothing to do with contrast.

    I think what's in order is to find and download a manual for this camera, setup all the knobs and stuff to default setting, then do some test shoot. For all we know, it's possible that camera may be in some strange mode or setup. Most camera manuals do tell you where the setting should be set to, to start shooting.

    I'd suggest doing this without a flash as it will add another element to consider.

    Assuming everything is working as it should, the camera should expose your film correctly most of the time. If it doesn't you got a problem....
    Develop, stop, fix.... wait.... where's my film?

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by amundenovskiy View Post
    I am New to film Photography (ABSALUTELY LOVE IT!) And I've been reading and reading about ISO, Shutter speed (I think thats ISO?) Aperture/F-Stop and theres a third one or something UGH i can't remember...

    but all 2 or three of them go hand in hand I think to take a great picture...
    My pictures I've developed I think look like they don't have enough light (I used flash) I am using a Pentax sn1? (I think) and I have a Pentax flash, AND its built-in flash... I think NOW it is the F-stop... I said it to 5.6 I think... But it differs from different lighting conditions...? Can someone please explain to me in detail without pushing links to read or books to read please (Regardless HOW great this link or book is it will be useless to me, I've been ALLLLL over the internet and my university text bok and I'm still here hahaha )


    BITTE UND DANKE!!!!!
    Could it be a SF1? That would allow the combination of flash units you mention.

    Anyway, to clear up a couple of things for you:
    ISO is the FILM speed and tells you what film is more or less sensitive to light.

    Shutter speed is 1/2 of the combination for correct exposure. When the shutter speed is set to a high speed, you can freeze motion of a fast moving subject.
    When it is set to a slow speed, that same subject will be blurred.

    F stop (or aperture) is the second half of the exposure combination, when the combination is correct you have proper exposure. When it's wrong your pictures can be either light or dark. Some people refer to apertures being "open" or "closed", "higher or lower" and the language can be confusing.
    Open or lower mean the smaller values on the lens but the bigger opening. Closed or higher are the larger numbers, or the smaller opening.
    The more common use is opening up or stopping down the aperture.
    Heavily sedated for your protection.

  5. #15
    zsas's Avatar
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    Looks the the manual is avail at Butkus.org, after donation.

    It looks like there is a metered manual mode, I highly recommend learning in that mode, anything else will automate. Keep a memo pad in your pocket and notate at a min: frame number, ISO of film, shutter speed, aperture

    Have fun!

    http://www.butkus.org/chinon/pentax/...pentax_sf1.htm
    Andy

  6. #16
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    You asked about how to compare your light meter with another camera. Analog or digital doesn't matter.

    There should be an indication what combination of shutter speed and aperture to choose. Maybe an lcd-screen.

    What you do is you take your other camera and see what combination that camera chooses (when it is set for ISO 400). Point the camera towards a a large evenly lit object, such as a wall for example. For this test, make sure that there are no brighter or darker areas. Ok, you got a value, let's say ISO 400, f16, speed 400. Then point your Pentax towards exactly the same object, not once but say five times. Do you get consistent values? Are the values close to what you got with your other camera? If not, well you might have a problem.

  7. #17

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    andy's suggestion is a good one!

    go the butkus.org, make a donation, get the manual and read it ...
    it explains exactly your problem and gives a variety of solutions,
    which include recommendations given to you here ...

    ( i know you have an aversion to internet forums,
    i hope you don't have an aversion to reading your camera's manual. )

    good luck !

  8. #18
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    Let me recommend working without flash until you master all the exposure basics and can make the best possible use of available light.

    After that, look up "guide number" on wikipedia and make sure you understand it, then you'll be ready to graduate to flash photography.

    Sorry for the unsolicited pedagogy
    "Only dead fish follow the stream"

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  9. #19

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    HI I think I figured it all out!

    I have a fully manual camera, my friend sold me last I was back home (BC)... its a Mamiya/Sekor (I prob over paid. but anyway) I have Kodak 400/27 in, and there is a ASA/DEUTSCHE-IN Number, which I set to 400-27, then I select the appropriate shutter speed. right now my camera is set to 125? not sure between 60(in red) and 125 AND the Aperture I have at 4.5 (indoor light) also I don't use a flash on this camera, because there is not holding gizmo for it, (Its a pain in the Tüches to hold a flash when its plugged in (via cord)

    So am I doing this right? lol ? haha
    The f-stop/aperture on this camera is f-11/f-2.8 or something... and for not so good light I have set it to 4.[x] inside another film BOX (200/24) the film said under different lights which aperture/f-stop to use so I just picked, but does it different between 200/24 and 400/27 ?
    (My 400 film did NOT have a chart thing, I looked inside and outside, all it says is good in all light conditions which to me aint very helpful

    SO I have my manual camera figured out, BUT my Pentax I am downloading its manual (For free I AINT paying no donation. FEH!) And I'm finding out I think it does the ASA/DIN automatically because you can only adjust the shutter speed and f-stop (And the camera has auto-focus, which is turn on/off I leave that to auto because i find it easier... because I have to take off my glasses to take a picture and I can't see how focused it is on my camera :S Also I will leave the f-stop on automatic as well on this roll of film and see if that was a problem fixer (Ill have to wait until develop these rolls - will let y'all know!)

    P.S. I hope y'all had a WONDERFUL Christmas, or Chanukah. My Chanukah was pretty good this year!
    ?HUGS!
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    Mr. Andrew Mündenovskiy
    http://www.mundenovskiy.ca

    "The the change you want to see in the world" -- Ghandi

  10. #20

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    Get and read a manual for the Mamiya. Yes, there is a difference between 200ASA and 400ASA film. You really should get and study a book on basic photography, it will help answer many of the questions you post here. Do some homework.

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