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  1. #31
    cjbecker's Avatar
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    I want to know more about this project?

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by CGW View Post
    Give it a rest. Mechanical cameras aren't immune to breaking, jamming, and otherwise failing suddenly. If I want reliability for a project, I won't be asking to borrow an elderly SRT 101 or Spotmatic for fear that something 40-50 years younger and electronic just might possibly fail. I also won't be losing any sleep over a possibility that remote.
    Then I can only question your real-world experience....

    Mine is quite different.
    M6, SL, SL2, R5, P6x7, SL3003, SL35-E, F, F2, FM, FE-2, Varex IIa

  3. #33

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    Have you ever thought that with the rate of digital depreciation, some of the classic manual cameras recommended (such as the Nikon F), might actually be MORE valuable that your digi SLR? (depending on the level of digi that you own or course).

    If you're nervous about shooting in "poor" areas, then maybe an automatic exposure SLR such as an old Nikon FE might be better..(less time spent standing still fussing over exposure)....Another tip, cover up the name "Nikon" with black tape.
    Last edited by rolleiman; 01-01-2012 at 01:31 PM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: spelling mastake

  4. #34
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    My vote goes to a used Nikon D5000. This is now one generation old and much cheaper than a Nikon D5100. The beauty is it has a fold out screen that you can use as a waist level finder. If you intend to take photos of people, I really like waist level finders. They are unobtrusive and don't attract much attention. I use my 1937 Voigtlander Bessa this way with the waist level finder. I shoot ISO 3200 b&w film in it and love the big 6x9 negs. It does have scale focus which doesn't bother me, and I use an incident light meter to get an exposure. It's a "normal" lens though. A Bronica ETRSi body with 50mm f2.8 lens and a waist level finder would be better, again using an incident light meter. You can carry different magazines along with different kinds of film.


    Kent in SD

  5. #35

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    Quote Originally Posted by CGW View Post
    After the usual chorus of counter-claims, testimonials and CLA recommendations dies down, remember you'll still be relying on a 40-50 year-old camera whose reputation for toughness will be cold comfort when it breaks or produces poorly-exposed negatives.
    I should probably take the hint and not chime in given your adament statement of your opinion/experience... but I still shoot with a 1982 F3 and a 198? FE and a 1958 Retina and a 1940 Anniversary Graphic and a 196? SuperGraphic with excellent reliability and quality. The key is not just the age of the equipment but the condition of the equipment. Oh, and my images are generally metered by a WestonIII or a LunaPro, but with a Gossen battery adapter to avoid being disappointed by kluged batteries. The difference that you may be alluding to is that someone buying older gear from whatever source may or may not be getting equipment that has been properly maintained.

  6. #36
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    Nikon FE, FE2 or F3 if you want aperture priority, FM or FM2 if meter is all you need. That's less than $100 (FE, FM) or $200 (FE2, FM2, F3). A Nikkor 24/2.8 in excellent condition can be had for $150 or even less.

  7. #37

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    Quote Originally Posted by BrianShaw View Post
    ...equipment that has been properly maintained.
    That's the great equalizer for any and all. Anything that functions can cease functioning...it all depends on whether or not they're kept up.

  8. #38

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    Quote Originally Posted by OldBodyOldSoul View Post
    A Nikkor 24/2.8 in excellent condition can be had for $150 or even less.
    See...someone agrees with me.

  9. #39
    CGW
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rol_Lei Nut View Post
    Then I can only question your real-world experience....

    Mine is quite different.
    OK, so what electronic cameras have failed you and when? Share your specific experiences.

  10. #40
    CGW
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrianShaw View Post
    I should probably take the hint and not chime in given your adament statement of your opinion/experience... but I still shoot with a 1982 F3 and a 198? FE and a 1958 Retina and a 1940 Anniversary Graphic and a 196? SuperGraphic with excellent reliability and quality. The key is not just the age of the equipment but the condition of the equipment. Oh, and my images are generally metered by a WestonIII or a LunaPro, but with a Gossen battery adapter to avoid being disappointed by kluged batteries. The difference that you may be alluding to is that someone buying older gear from whatever source may or may not be getting equipment that has been properly maintained.
    Fair enough. My point is simply that older is not axiomatically better. I've got low-mileage FE, F3, F90x and F100 bodies I trust that were bought as NOS or from original owners.

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