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  1. #21
    Sirius Glass's Avatar
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    If you gott'em shoot'em

    Welcome to APUG
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

  2. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sirius Glass View Post
    If you gott'em shoot'em

    Welcome to APUG
    Thanks, Sirius
    Last edited by ZENGHOST; 07-10-2014 at 06:07 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  3. #23
    Kyle M.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZENGHOST View Post
    I definitely have trouble hand-holding it. Focusing while hand-holding is a pain for me, give you props on that one. I also have enough trouble lugging my DSLR and lenses around as it is. I figure the Ikonta should be small enough to add to my regular pack without too much issue so I can throw in some landscapes on film while I'm shooting the digital stuff too. The one I got is coming from certo6 so it should work pretty well.

    I've read about the double-exposure thing and I can guarantee that I will do it accidentally at least a couple of times. Not sure about the lever below the advance knob, will have to check that when I get home. Was thinking about picking up some extra backs later--do you think it would it be worth the extra cost to pick up Pro-S or Pro-SD backs as opposed to the Pro back I have?

    So far I've figured out the general workings as far as shutter, dark slide, focusing, film loading, disassembly, etc., my next step is figuring out how to set aperture and shutter speed. I'm probably overcomplicating it, but it didn't seem as intuitive as I was hoping. I hope to test it out this weekend.

    Thanks for the help.
    I've only got 1 back it's a Pro-SD back on a Pro-S body which is nice because the pro sd backs don't have foam light seals to go bad, the pro S back that came on it had bad foam and I've been too lazy to re-foam it. Not sure if you'll gain double exposure prevention though I think thats triggered by the body on the Pro-S and SD, though the SD does have a lock so you can't pull the dark slide with the back removed. I believe you only have to trip the lever below the film advance when your actually on a frame, the advance should move freely on an unloaded back. The later models had a pin that popped out of the body and turned half the frame counter window red after you had exposed a frame, then you couldn't double expose without flicking a separate switch. The Pro-SD back also has a convenient dark slide holder so you don't have to hold it in your teeth or put it on the side of the body. My Ikonta was also from Certo6, if you got the one he had listed up until a few days ago 523/2 I believe? Then it's pretty much the same as mine was other than yours has a viewfinder in the top plate, mine had the pop up finder.

    Setting shutter speed and aperture is just like any other camera, take a reading with your light meter then set the indicated aperture on the aperture ring and shutter speed on the shutter speed ring. The 50mm lens has a floating element and you need to set the subject distance on the ring on the front of the lens. You can either guess this distance or use the fancy little graph on the right side of the bellows. On the other two lenses you have that ring at the front is simply a depth of field chart, set the subject distance in the center then read off you DOF between the corresponding aperture marks.
    Last edited by Kyle M.; 07-10-2014 at 06:12 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    Yashica-Mat 124 G

  4. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kyle M. View Post
    I've only got 1 back it's a Pro-SD back on a Pro-S body which is nice because the pro sd backs don't have foam light seals to go bad, the pro S back that came on it had bad foam and I've been too lazy to re-foam it. Not sure if you'll gain double exposure prevention though I think thats triggered by the body on the Pro-S and SD, though the SD does have a lock so you can't pull the dark slide with the back removed. I believe you only have to trip the lever below the film advance when your actually on a frame, the advance should move freely on an unloaded back. The later models had a pin that popped out of the body and turned half the frame counter window red after you had exposed a frame, then you couldn't double expose without flicking a separate switch. The Pro-SD back also has a convenient dark slide holder so you don't have to hold it in your teeth or put it on the side of the body. My Ikonta was also from Certo6, if you got the one he had listed up until a few days ago 523/2 I believe? Then it's pretty much the same as mine was other than yours has a viewfinder in the top plate, mine had the pop up finder.

    Setting shutter speed and aperture is just like any other camera, take a reading with your light meter then set the indicated aperture on the aperture ring and shutter speed on the shutter speed ring. The 50mm lens has a floating element and you need to set the subject distance on the ring on the front of the lens. You can either guess this distance or use the fancy little graph on the right side of the bellows. On the other two lenses you have that ring at the front is simply a depth of field chart, set the subject distance in the center then read off you DOF between the corresponding aperture marks.
    Yep, that's the one I got. I think it's gonna get here sometime next week just in time for my annual trip down to Kalaupapa on Molokai next weekend so I hope to get some shots down there with it (I'm not gonna lug the Mamiya down there).

    Yeah, it's the floating element/distance setting part that was throwing me off since I've never dealt with anything like that. When I read about it, it confused me a bit so I'm just gonna have to try it and see what happens. Thanks for the tips, that helps a lot.

    I didn't realize the SD back doesn't have the foam seals, that's good to know.

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