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  1. #21

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    well, this is all making more sense now... I guess I just need to do my research on more than till I find the right one I am looking for.. Really, if I am metering 30sec and shooting 155, thats not that big of a deal as long as I am using my tripod..

  2. #22
    MattKing's Avatar
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    Another thing you need to become familiar with is the fact that reciprocity failure has a tendency to change the apparent contrast. This is due to the fact that the shadows, which are of lower than average intensity, may require more compensation, while the highlights, being of higher intensity, may require less compensation.

    The net result is that the resulting negative or slide may yield final results that have a very distinct appearance. Long exposures at low light levels require practice .
    Matt

    “Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”

    Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2

  3. #23
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    Alls I have to say is that I have seen test (hearsay I know) and have experienced Fuji Acros to go up to 15 minutes with barely a 1/2 stop compensation. I originally read some test and thought they were bogus until I did it for myself. I did a 7 minute exposure that came out precisely as predicted. Just my 0.02$....../intoxicated
    K.S. Klain

  4. #24
    polyglot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kenski View Post
    well, this is all making more sense now... I guess I just need to do my research on more than till I find the right one I am looking for.. Really, if I am metering 30sec and shooting 155, thats not that big of a deal as long as I am using my tripod..
    Except that as posted above, with films like Acros and Provia, no such correction is required. At most half a stop for hour+ exposures (1 hour becomes 1.5 hours but 10 minutes would remain unadjusted as 10 minutes). That's why we're recommending those films for night photography.

    If you shot with something like Pan-F, you would need to make such a correction. However, I've found that the reciprocity performance of the Ilford traditional (non-Delta) films like Pan-F, FP4 and HP5 is not as bad as the data tables that they provide for those films, so you don't need quite as much correction. However with a negative film it's always a lot better to overexpose than under, so you'll not have any problems if you just follow the table and be conservative.

    Of course, using Acros, Provia or TMY2 will be much easier because you apply little or no correction; no thought is required, and you don't end up with stupidly long exposures. For example if you wanted to follow the official table for HP5 and your metered exposure was an hour, your corrected exposure will be about 30 hours: it might be a bit of a problem to fit that into a single night! If you use TMY2 instead and don't adjust the exposure, you've merely under-exposed by 1/2 a stop, i.e. at EI560. TMY2 has enough latitude that you'll probably get your full tonal range without even adjusting development; if you push it a stop you'll get everything.

  5. #25

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    it is still a bit confusing but Im getting it. I learn by doing not reading so much so with the posts here and actually shooting and developing, I shouldn't have a problem. Im glad to get this help before I go shoot because I would be UPSET!

    The only thing that is really helping me right now is knowing my camera is several thousand miles away right now and I have alittle over three weeks before I will get to shoot with it. Gives me time to do some research before I really screw things up!

  6. #26

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    ok, I just ordered 10 rolls:

    2-Acros 100
    2-TMY2
    2-Pan F
    2-Delta 100
    2-HP5

    Going to use the TMY2, Acros, and HP5 for long exposure shoots.

  7. #27
    lxdude's Avatar
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    Remember that you do not have to extend the time if you open up the lens by the amount specified. So if you need to add a half a stop to an exposure of say, 20 minutes, you don't have to add 10 minutes. You can simply increase the lens opening by 1/2 stop. So if the lens is set to f/8, change it to midway between f/8 and f/5.6. The best is to do tests to see for yourself, and as polyglot says, the film's latitude will also help cover exposure inaccuracy.
    Also, at night, there isn't one exact exposure that is "correct". Exposures can range from looking like daytime to definitely looking like night. Personally, I usually don't look to preserve shadow detail so much, so my exposures tend to be shorter. I could let my Pentax LX time a landscape on auto under a partial moon for several hours and it would look similar to daytime, i.e., a "correct" exposure, but I seldom want that.
    I do use a digital device in my photographic pursuits when necessary.
    When someone rags on me for using film, I use a middle digit, upraised.

  8. #28

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    Correct... I know that is possible too..

  9. #29
    lxdude's Avatar
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    A good book is Night Photography by Andrew Sanderson. It's fairly recent (2002). Lots of good information.

    I shoot mostly color at night, in the range of a few seconds to a few minutes. I'm starting to get interested in B+W myself. I expect that soon you'll be able to give me advice!

    BTW:Welcome to APUG!
    Last edited by lxdude; 06-22-2011 at 03:33 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    I do use a digital device in my photographic pursuits when necessary.
    When someone rags on me for using film, I use a middle digit, upraised.

  10. #30
    Steve Smith's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lxdude View Post
    Also, at night, there isn't one exact exposure that is "correct". Exposures can range from looking like daytime to definitely looking like night.
    And if you rely on a meter reading, it will try to make the scene look like a normal daytime scene so a bit of under-exposure compared to what the meter suggests can be a good thing.


    Steve.
    "People who say things won't work are a dime a dozen. People who figure out how to make things work are worth a fortune" - Dave Rat.

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