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  1. #11
    Joey Anchors's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattKing View Post
    This is true - with a small qualification.

    The old contact paper was quite slow, and some contact printers had correspondingly intense light sources.

    So you might discover that the exposure times needed for enlarging paper are inconveniently short.

    The solution? Replace the bulb with something of lower intensity, or add something else that will lower the light intensity.
    Matt speaking of light sources, you guessed right. This contact printer has two 15watt bulbs under a frosted pane of glass.

    I have done a few (more like 10) runs of contact prints, using LPD (1:1), TF4 (1:3), and Ilford Ilfobrom Gallery FB paper (Grade 2). What I am running into is making exposures of 8-10 second produces nothing but solid black. I found that an exposure of 1 second (literally closing the lid and open it right back up) will give me an image. I tried taking out one of the bulbs but that only gives me 1 more second and an uneven exposure.

    What are some thing I can try to get better contact prints using what I got?


    P.S. The bulbs are 3" below the top pan of clear glass the negative and paper sit on.

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by MartinP View Post
    Foma still make a "contact-speed" paper, called Fomalux. That might be worth a look. It is a fibre paper with a slow chloride emulsion.
    Yes, use the slowest paper you can find. If you replace the bulb in the printer make sure that light coverage remains uniform.
    A rock pile ceases to be a rock pile the moment a single man contemplates it, bearing within him the image of a cathedral.

    ~Antoine de Saint-Exupery

  3. #13
    RalphLambrecht's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pstake View Post
    Wouldn't he need contact printing paper? Like AZO, Lodima?

    Not being a wise guy; I've really never contact printed.
    No,just as already said by someone else;any paper ;any developer should do.
    Regards

    Ralph W. Lambrecht
    www.darkroomagic.comrorrlambrec@ymail.com[/URL]
    www.waybeyondmonochrome.com

  4. #14
    pstake's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joey Anchors View Post
    Matt speaking of light sources, you guessed right. This contact printer has two 15watt bulbs under a frosted pane of glass.

    I have done a few (more like 10) runs of contact prints, using LPD (1:1), TF4 (1:3), and Ilford Ilfobrom Gallery FB paper (Grade 2). What I am running into is making exposures of 8-10 second produces nothing but solid black. I found that an exposure of 1 second (literally closing the lid and open it right back up) will give me an image. I tried taking out one of the bulbs but that only gives me 1 more second and an uneven exposure.

    What are some thing I can try to get better contact prints using what I got?


    P.S. The bulbs are 3" below the top pan of clear glass the negative and paper sit on.
    Joey,

    enlarging paper is too fast. Use Azo or Lodima paper. I have now contact printed 4x5s on a contact printer with two 15 watt bulbs. My exposures are around 2 seconds with a minute or less in the developer. I'm using AZO G-4.

    I am serious. And you are welcome to send me your surplus of Galerie About this I am only half joking.

  5. #15
    Joey Anchors's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pstake View Post
    Joey,

    enlarging paper is too fast. Use Azo or Lodima paper. I have now contact printed 4x5s on a contact printer with two 15 watt bulbs. My exposures are around 2 seconds with a minute or less in the developer. I'm using AZO G-4.

    I am serious. And you are welcome to send me your surplus of Galerie About this I am only half joking.
    Ok it looks like I am doing things right as I am getting the same exposure/developing times as you pstake

  6. #16
    MattKing's Avatar
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    A lamp dimmer might help reduce the light intensity, at the risk of changing the colour of the light itself. Your paper is not sensitive to red light, and using the dimmer will make the light go more red/less blue. I would suggest that you take out one bulb and keep it safe while you experiment with a single bulb and the dimmer.
    Matt

    “Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”

    Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2

  7. #17
    pstake's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joey Anchors View Post
    Ok it looks like I am doing things right as I am getting the same exposure/developing times as you pstake
    I've shot fewer than 75 4x5 films in my life with only a handful of what I would call successful negatives.

    I'm complimented by this but it's a BIG assumption to think that if you're doing things like me, you're doing them right.

  8. #18
    Joey Anchors's Avatar
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    One thing I have noticed when my prints in developing is that if left in the developer for a full two mintures they turn solid black. So I have been taking them out when they look done which is usually around 60 seconds

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