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  1. #21
    Bob Carnie's Avatar
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    this advice does not seem to be sinking in Jim. I agree with what you say.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Noel View Post
    The developer was not only overly dilute, but two weeks after mixing the working solution you are lucky it had any life left at all. It should be diluted 1+2 or 1+3 IMMEDIATELY PRIOR TO USE!
    Try reading the Kodak directions for Dektol rather than items on here referring to using the developer for processes different from those for which it was designed.

  2. #22

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    If the ambient temperature is above 30C (quite likely over much of India) then Dektol is clearly not the best developer choice. But what is?

    I recall there being special-purpose tropical film-developers, for use at high temperatures, but is there a readily available (in India) paper-developer for the same purpose, or a restrainer that could be added to a standard developer? These might help the OP's temperature problem, for developing the contact prints. It would be helpful to see the negative(s) which are giving these results too.

    To make it completely clear, high-temperature extremely diluted Dektol will be of unusable quality in an hour or so.

  3. #23
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    Aside from everyone else mentioned here, I can only suggest trying different light with the appropriate grade filter. When I started contact printing my 4x5, I used a YN-560 flash and a Rosco Skelton's Exotic Sangria filter to approximate Grade 3 printing. I used a manual remote trigger and flashed into a Flashbender, bounced off he white wall. 9 pops at 1/32 power was usually about right for grade 3. Due to the diffusion, the grade was between 2 and 3, so it worked out.

    With the Ilford filters, I got better more accurate results. That may help you. I hope it does.

  4. #24
    analoguey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kintatsu View Post
    Aside from everyone else mentioned here, I can only suggest trying different light with the appropriate grade filter. When I started contact printing my 4x5, I used a YN-560 flash and a Rosco Skelton's Exotic Sangria filter to approximate Grade 3 printing. I used a manual remote trigger and flashed into a Flashbender, bounced off he white wall. 9 pops at 1/32 power was usually about right for grade 3. Due to the diffusion, the grade was between 2 and 3, so it worked out.

    With the Ilford filters, I got better more accurate results. That may help you. I hope it does.
    That is a very repeatable, interesting suggestion - did you try altering distances or such? I have a 560-iii so can directly try it out Or even try with Metz too.

  5. #25
    cliveh's Avatar
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    The dev is clapped out (oxidised) end of story.

    “The contemplation of things as they are, without error or confusion, without substitution or imposture, is in itself a nobler thing than a whole harvest of invention”

    Francis Bacon

  6. #26
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    Dilutions

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Right I tried Dektol 1:3 as well (again), freshly mixed and at 45-50s I am more or less forced to pull the print out. Its been a couple of days since, so I will try that 1:3 solution again tonight Will also test with some more diluted solutions.

    The attached images were all printed with 1:7, from a (very) thin negative at ~25C (exact temp is in my notes +-1C). The one on the right is the first print, the middle one was where I experimented with dodging - and the one on the left is one where I more or less got the print as I wanted for the shadows with burning at the bottom.

    Thank you for the tips, I'll post updates once I am done with those.
    (Once I get this sorted out, will try ordering Ethol)
    Last edited by analoguey; 04-23-2014 at 07:31 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by analoguey View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I am more or less forced to pull the print out.
    Whoa! You have not been removing the prints from the developer before they have completed development? If that is the case then we have found the problem.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by ic-racer View Post
    Whoa! You have not been removing the prints from the developer before they have completed development? If that is the case then we have found the problem.
    Oh, no no! I got deep blacks by 15s-20s or so and by 45s- 1 min, I would see the print tend to go black in the grey-er areas too - except for prints from very dense negatives, which did good with 1 min+
    Will be testing with the same negatives/light again, comparing prints.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by analoguey View Post
    That is a very repeatable, interesting suggestion - did you try altering distances or such? I have a 560-iii so can directly try it out Or even try with Metz too.
    My bathroom is too small to vary the distance, but changing the power and filters made for very noticeable changes in contrast. I changed the angle of the bounce from the walls and got noticeable changes, as well.

    The nice thing about doing it that way was the lack of Newton's rings. Using my small enlarger, I get them on almost every print. I'm trying to get the time to build up an old fashioned printing frame to work around the problem.

  10. #30

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    Quote Originally Posted by analoguey View Post
    Not really, mostly average with good definition.



    They looked okay with 120 - with even darker negatives.
    It might be exhausted, I have anyways dumped the dektol to make new working solution.

    1:3 is actually too strong - temp is usually close to 30c I get little or no time before over development, 1:8 is just fine.

    Sent from Tap-a-talk
    Probaby to hot. Dektol at 1:2 or 1:3 is usually around 20 degrees centegrade for good results.

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