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  1. #11
    Mongo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bennoj
    ...as the owner of the darkroom I'm working in only lets me final wash for 15 minutes (water rates are high as we didn't have much rain/snow this winter).
    Benno-

    No harm in continuing to wash them later on at home. If you want to keep these prints for a while (and I think you should!), then it's "Better safe than sorry" time for the washing.
    Film is cheap. Opportunities are priceless.

  2. #12
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    Yes
    Gustavo Castilla
    We are not moved by things ,
    but by the views we take of them.
    Epictitus.
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  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by castilg
    If you know where to find the lamps can you guys let me know
    Thanks
    I got mine at the local Kroger food store. They ain't hard to find, at least in my local area.

    Don Bryant

  4. #14
    noseoil's Avatar
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    Benno, very nice job for your first round of printing.

    The good thing about azo is that a minimum size of darkroom and equipment is needed. You can get by with 4 trays, a sink, a bare bulb hanging from the ceiling, some neutol-wa, stop and fixer. For printing all you need is a sheet of glass, felt or foam backing board, azo and time. Weston worked in a tiny room with a bare bulb and his prints worked out well.

  5. #15
    c6h6o3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by noseoil
    Benno, very nice job for your first round of printing.

    The good thing about azo is that a minimum size of darkroom and equipment is needed. You can get by with 4 trays, a sink, a bare bulb hanging from the ceiling, some neutol-wa, stop and fixer. For printing all you need is a sheet of glass, felt or foam backing board, azo and time. Weston worked in a tiny room with a bare bulb and his prints worked out well.
    I agree with all of the above except the neutol-wa. There is no substitute for Amidol.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Donald Miller
    Do you mean hypo clearing agent?
    No, he means 'Was plain hypo used to fix the prints?' as opposed to rapid fixer.

  7. #17
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    I used plain hypo as fix and did use a hypo clearing agent.
    Benno Jones
    Seattle, WA

  8. #18
    noseoil's Avatar
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    Light bulb printing

    Benno, Jim has posted that Amidol is best for azo printing, and I cannot disagree with him on this point. However, don't let amidol stand in your way. The Neutol-wa (1:7 for 1:30) is fine for seeing what is in a print, for that matter, so is plain old dektol (1:2 for 1:00).

    I've attached 3 contact prints from 4x5 shots to illustrate my point. The first is an efke 25 negative, exposed and developed for enlarging paper, printed on grade 2 azo. Second is efke 100 on grade 2 azo. Third the same shot on grade 2 fiber exposed for enlarging.

    Hope this gives you some idea of what you can do with a bare bulb and minimum of equipment. tim

  9. #19
    c6h6o3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by noseoil
    Benno, Jim has posted that Amidol is best for azo printing, and I cannot disagree with him on this point. However, don't let amidol stand in your way. ... tim
    Don't let it stand in your way of getting started, but do get some Amidol. I use Neutol sometimes. But, if you're going to make the investment in chemistry, large format negatives developed especially for contact printing, etc. you don't want to skimp at precisely the point where the rubber really meets the road. The fact that you're making such an effort says that you're shooting for 'no compromises' silver printing. In my opinion, any other print developer is the biggest compromise you can make.

    Are you in on Greg Davis' buy? There might still be a slot left in one of the groups.

  10. #20
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    As noted in my initial post in this thread, I am using amidol. I am very happy with the overall look of the prints, although I know I can do a better job at fine-tuning the exposures and doing some burning on a few (the shot of the park bench is too dark overall, but a lighter version is too light in the bottom area of leaves, so I need to re-print that one with the lighter exposure used for the background and sky and burning in the foreground. However, given the thinness of that negative, I would probably be best served by going back and re-shooting to get a denser negative that will require a longer exposure time. The light version of the current neg is printing in 3 seconds, not a lot of time for print manipulation! What impresses me about the paper/developer combination is the fact that even though the print is overall too dark, there is still detail to be seen in the shadows - nothing blocked up completely.

    Incidentally, the two shots of the tree with the large scar are on Grade 2 Azo, the others (thinner negs) on Grade 3.
    Benno Jones
    Seattle, WA

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