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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by WarEaglemtn
    Guess I will have to go another direction & bleach & redevelop in sepia to get closer to what I want.
    I've been messing quite a bit lately with azo & thiocarbamide toning, after not getting the warmth I wanted with adding more KBR to the developer. I've found that it's easy to overdo it if I don't watch it. In my limited experience, I've found azo to be capable of a wide range of colors using this toner.

  2. #12

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    "I've been messing quite a bit lately with azo & thiocarbamide toning"

    Can you post which formula you are using. I may try this & see if it works for me.

    I can't understand the small change with the Selenium. A bit cooler but that is all. How much messing around are Kodak people doing with the paper?

  3. #13

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    I liked the look of hypo alumn toners on AZO, very rich warm brown with none on the sickly yellow/sulpher tones I have seen with bleach and redevelop toners. I remember the Azo toning to compleation in about 15 minutes at 100F, much faster than enlarging paper. I think I was using the Kodak T1 toner in Anchells Darkroom cookbook.You do need to print a stop or 2 darker as the toner bleaches. I was using the Canadian Azo when doing this.

  4. #14

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    Dan - Here's what I'm using:

    Bleach - potassium ferricyanide 50g, potassium bromide 10g, sodium carbonate 20g, water 1000ml. I dilute 1:9 before use.

    Toner - Sodium Hydroxide 5% solution 120ml, Thiourea 5% solution 120ml, Water 760ml. I keep the solutions in seperate containers & mix together with the water just prior to use.

    For Azo Grade 2 (I haven't tried to tone G3 yet) a 30" bleach with 1' in the toner will give slight warmth. With 1'30" in the bleach & 1' in the toner you should get brown/sepia. A full bleach (about 6 minutes in my estimation) will give you the ugly sulfer yellow brown that Brook is referring to. You can get eggplant purpley colors if you tone before you bleach & tone again after. This color will change with shorter pre-toning times. If you tone before you bleach, the bleach action takes much longer.

    Don't forget that the emulsion will get very soft. I failed to remember this the last time & scratched the hell out of some prints.


    Brook - Thanks for the tip on the hypo alum toners & azo. I will definitely give them a try.

    Have fun,
    Matt

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