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  1. #11
    c6h6o3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by avandesande View Post
    I am using rapid fixer.... does the same thing about using regular hypo apply? Anyone else having problems with this?
    I use only plain hypo fixer for printing. I think that if you do your problems will disappear.

  2. #12
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    Jim, I have a friend who has tried Kentona - I don't remember the developer, but it was probably Nutrol or Ansco 130. He wound up with a blotchy, cream-colored (coloured) tint to his prints. Have you seen this problem using amidol?
    juan

  3. #13
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    I've used Kentona in Neutol WA and Ansco 130 with excellent results (as well as with Ilford Warmtone and Multigrade devs) so I very much doubt your friend's problem was typical. The paper has been widely used for years so any such "blotchy" problem would have come to light many moons ago.

    Personal experience tells me that 99% of the time when I have had a problem with any negative or print it was my fault, not the material's fault...

    Cheers, Bob.

  4. #14
    c6h6o3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by juan View Post
    Jim, I have a friend who has tried Kentona - I don't remember the developer, but it was probably Nutrol or Ansco 130. He wound up with a blotchy, cream-colored (coloured) tint to his prints. Have you seen this problem using amidol?
    juan
    No

  5. #15

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    I tried with hypo fixer, and I was able to wash the prints clean of the pink after a long time. It is kind of annoying trying to figure out what the final look of the print is going to be when it is so highly color. Have you guys had the same experience?
    Thanks
    art is about managing compromise

  6. #16
    c6h6o3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by avandesande View Post
    I tried with hypo fixer, and I was able to wash the prints clean of the pink after a long time. It is kind of annoying trying to figure out what the final look of the print is going to be when it is so highly color. Have you guys had the same experience?
    Thanks
    The only time I had any color problems was when I overtoned them in concentrated Kodak RST. They turned a bilious magenta. But in the plain hypo fixer they were a gorgeous warm black. Always.

  7. #17

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    I can pretty much get the pink out, interestingly enough with a side by side comparison the kentmere bromide appeared warmer than the kentona. The kentona had a hint of green, and the bromide paper had a very slight purple, much like a hint of selenium toner.
    The emulsion is soft though and seems to pick up junk from my water, which is not filtered. I am probably going to give a nod to the bromide paper since it is easier to use, and the tonality to my eyes (other than the color) pretty much the same.
    art is about managing compromise

  8. #18

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    What "BULK" purchase of Chinese Amidol? Was that a one time thing? Is it significantly cheaper?

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by PHOTOTONE View Post
    What "BULK" purchase of Chinese Amidol? Was that a one time thing? Is it significantly cheaper?
    That's all a done deal. If you held a gun to Gregs' head to do another one he would probably say,"shoot".

  10. #20

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    Some of the people that help organize the purchase had people back out... you could probably score some with a WTB in the classifieds.
    art is about managing compromise

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