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  1. #1
    timbo10ca's Avatar
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    Contact Printing 5x7 on 8x10 paper

    Here's another one that may be obvious:

    I like the look of a 5x7 print on a larger sheet of paper. I've been trying to think of a way to contact print a neg in the center of the paper, and keeping the rest of the paper masked off so it remains white. So far my idea is to use an 8x10 matt with a 5x7 hole that I place on top of the glass, and line up the paper and negative underneath it. If I had a dedicated printer for LF, I could tape the matt in place, and mark off boundaries on the foam as to where to place the paper, to keep everything from sliding around while I set up. I only have one contact printer though, and I want to still use it for 35mm and MF contact sheets.
    My original thought was to put a piece of paper down, then the matt, then the neg inside the matt, all lined up, and then a 5x7 piece of glass over the neg. Would the glass be heavy enough though to keep the neg firm against the paper for maximum sharpness though?
    I am starting to get the impression from reading other posts that my $40 PrintFile contact printer is not going to be sufficient for good contact prints anyway (not sure why- maybe this could be explained? Is it the weight of the glass or something), so I may be having to dish out for another frame. I sure would like to avoid that though.....

    Thanks,
    Tim
    If only we could pull out our brains and use only our eyes. P. Picasso

    http://www.timbowlesphotography.com

  2. #2
    Vaughn's Avatar
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    It is important that there is enough even pressure over the negative to maintain good contact -- for the sharpest contact prints. If your Patterson does, then it is good enough.

    One other possibility is to buy a piece of 9"x11" or so thick glass (have the edges sanded to protect you fingers -- and it keeps the glass from chipping at the edges) and use it as your 5x7 contact printer. Find the thinnest opaquic paper you can find (even rubylith might work well) to make frame around the negative ( on the bottom of the glass -- same side as the neg). Tape the neg to the glass using transparent tape (just two smal pieces on opposite corners) so that when you place the glass & neg on top of the photopaper, the neg doesn't move.

    Under the paper you can use a piece or closed-cell foam (I have used the black backpacking sleeping pads), or even a piece of black matboard.

    Or buy a contact printing frame on ebay...

    Vaughn
    Last edited by Vaughn; 02-07-2007 at 03:57 PM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: typos

  3. #3
    eric's Avatar
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    This is an interesting thread cause I've been thinking THE SAME EXACT THING for about a year now. I've just only played with ideas in my head and perhaps, together, we can get somewhere. I like the idea of creating a mask with thin opaque or better yet, wit that rubylith right on the glass. But I was thinking the same, the thickness of the mask will ruin the pressure. Perhaps, slightly bigger piece of paper under the 5x7 and under the 8x10 so that it gets raised a little so the glass will make contact?
    I was also thinking of making the "hole" in the glass by taping the section (in my case, 4x5 negs) on top of the glass and carefully position the neg under that "window".
    Or now, that I reread my reply, you can take the rubylith and make that the TOP portion of the glass.

  4. #4
    Jerevan's Avatar
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    Well, I been thinking about this, too... Trying to figure out a good way to make 5x7 contacts on an 8x10. The most problematic part for me is to get the neg centered on the paper. But if one gets a piece of heavy glass and makes this opaque frame on top of it, as Eric says, might work pretty well. If the glass is exactly 8x10 and the opaque part is centered. I think just a matt board on top of the glass could work, but that doesn't solve the centering issue.
    “Do your work, then step back. The only path to serenity.” - Lao Tzu

  5. #5
    eric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerevan View Post
    is centered. I think just a matt board on top of the glass could work, but that doesn't solve the centering issue.
    I'm glad we are all thinking the same.
    The centering part is the part that we have to brainstorm. Cause I can see it now when you place the neg down and the glass, the neg always seems to move a little.

    Perhaps (just thinking and typing), you take that matt paper idea, put it over an 8x10. Place neg in openning, and somehow, tack the corners. Then remove the matt, and place glass. I wonder....will using clear scotch tape be seen on the final output? Won't light go through it like glass?

  6. #6
    Jerevan's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=eric;428503 I wonder....will using clear scotch tape be seen on the final output? Won't light go through it like glass?[/QUOTE]

    If the tape is masked off by the matt, it shouldn't show up. But it might leave marks on the paper itself... Hmmm... gotta go think about this.
    “Do your work, then step back. The only path to serenity.” - Lao Tzu

  7. #7
    eric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerevan View Post
    If the tape is masked off by the matt, it shouldn't show up. But it might leave marks on the paper itself... Hmmm... gotta go think about this.
    But then we still have the same issue of the matt is raised and the glass won't be in "contact" with the neg. I'll have to try the tape idea this weekend on some 120 film. My guess, is that i'll be okay with RC paper but for fiber, perhaps taping a used piece of fiber paper and taking it off a few times to remove some glue, may make it just tacky enough.

  8. #8

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    How about using rubylith to mask the paper, and cutting a piece of clear mylar (the same thickness as the rubylith and same dimensions as the opening in the rubylith) to cover the negative. You wouldn't lose pressure over the negative this way.

  9. #9
    Jerevan's Avatar
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    I meant putting the matt on top of the glass, with the neg underneath, taped to the paper. Centering and taping the neg to paper is done with the help of the loose matt first. Real-world experiments to follow...
    “Do your work, then step back. The only path to serenity.” - Lao Tzu

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by timbo10ca View Post
    My original thought was to put a piece of paper down, then the matt, then the neg inside the matt, all lined up, and then a 5x7 piece of glass over the neg. Would the glass be heavy enough though to keep the neg firm against the paper for maximum sharpness though?
    Thanks,
    Tim

    hi tim

    a big piece of matboard with a nice window and a heavy piece of glass the size of your film will work well, as long as the window is just a bit bigger than the film, and the glass is heavy ( like 1/4" plate ). having a nice window cut in 4ply board will help you orient your film too ...

    john
    Last edited by jnanian; 02-07-2007 at 06:57 PM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: forgot something
    ask me how ..

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