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  1. #11
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    I don't know if this helps, but how do you store your paper? In the darkroom, or outside it? Keeping them in the darkroom can contaminate them.
    I've had the same problem juan is mentioning with Kentona. With Bromide I've only had the odd speck of yellow, but guess what, that was from not washing the prints properly.
    My darkroom has been anywhere from 67*F to 75*F, representing the chemistry temperature at the time too.
    I've used the same A130 / TF4 combination as you, with the difference that I didn't selenium tone.
    - Thomas
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  2. #12

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    I store my paper in a large black plastic box, with a snap on lid in the darkroom. The paper itself couldn't have been modified by being in the darkroom, because I printed the same day a new box of grade3 came. My darkroom temp usually stays around 70F. I wash my paper under running water in trays ATM, face up for 1.5 hours generally.

    Juan, how long did kentmere tell you to leave the paper in the developer for? Ansco is pretty fast working, but I couldn't see developing for less than say 40seconds. Perhaps my developer does need to be modified.

  3. #13
    juan's Avatar
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    Kentmere was recommending about one minute developing times. I had no problems when my darkroom temp was 70F, so I don't think we had the same problem.
    juan

  4. #14

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    My developing time is one minute mostly. I think I'm going to go pick up some dektol and powder fixer tommorow, maybe my past few ansco mixes have been bad or hexed or cursed.. or something.

  5. #15
    Michel Hardy-Vallée's Avatar
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    I use PF 130 1+1 on Kentmere Bromide G3, hypo-clear, wash, tone in selenium 1+9 for 5 to 8 minutes and never got anything close to a warm tone. It's always cold. Temperature has been pretty high lately (30C with high humidity) and even then, it didn't change anything. My pf 130 is dark like coke, and it still gives the same results as when it's fresh.

    Have you contacted Kentmere? Maybe you got a defective batch?
    Using film since before it was hip.


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  6. #16

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    wow! Ok, I'm really confused then- because I've ALWAYS had a semi-warmish tone with this combo, but it has gotten worse recently. I don't think it's possible that I've had defective batches one after another. I've been through 2 25 sheet boxes of grade 2, 2 boxes of 100 sheet gr 3, and 3-4 25 sheet boxes of grade 4.. Guess I'll get in contact with kentmere then.

  7. #17
    Shawn Dougherty's Avatar
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    Please keep us updated, rootberry. It almost sounds like they packed Kentona in your Bromide box! Good luck figuring this out. Best. Shawn

  8. #18

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    I would be really floored if that was the problem, but anything is possible. I'm going to get back into the darkroom in the next 2 days or so and try to figure this one out. I'll keep you guys updated.

  9. #19
    CBG
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    Are you hot mounting the prints that go really warm? Some folks have mentioned color/warmth changes that occur when prints are heated to mount them.

    Best,

    C

  10. #20

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    No CBG, I have narrowed the problem down- and it's not the toner. I am getting this overly warm tone with just the ansco, water stop, and fixer. Tommorow I am going back to square one, going to test different lighting sources, turn off the safelight and see what happens.. I guess it could be the lightbulb I use for contact printing. I use a 7.5 watt bulb in a "box" that projects around a 16x16" square of light so I can dodge and burn accurately.. Could it be a problem with my bulb?

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