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  1. #11

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    FPArnold - I figured that my cheap "sunprint" paper was probably sub-par.

    I did learn some interesting things from it though. For one, you have to wait a while for the true color of the image to emerge. After 2 days for drying the prints achieve their "full blue" look. Prior to that they look much paler. I think this has to do with the paper I am using and the amount of water it holds. It seems that once all the water is driven out of the paper, you get a much bolder blue.

    I need to contact Bostick and Sullivan and get some cyanotype materials from them. Now, I have seen two formulas out there. An "classic" forumla known as "A" and another formula called "B".

    So what is the difference?
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  2. #12

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    </span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (Robert Kennedy @ Feb 3 2003, 12:41 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'>Now, I have seen two formulas out there.&nbsp; An "classic" forumla known as "A" and another formula called "B".

    So what is the difference?</td></tr></table><span class='postcolor'>
    The classic formula calls for a stock solution A of ferric ammonium citrate, and a stock B solution of potassium ferricyanide, you mix them 1:1 before coating your paper.

    In addition, there are many versions of the formula. There are other formulas that add oxalic acid to both, as well as ammonium dichromate to solution B, others.
    Nobody ever went broke underestimating the intelligence of the American public.

  3. #13

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    Actually, check Ed Buffaloe&#39;s site for cyanotype formulas here:

    http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Cyano/cyano.html
    Nobody ever went broke underestimating the intelligence of the American public.

  4. #14
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    Check Mike Ware&#39;s web site:

    http://www.mikeware.demon.co.uk

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