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  1. #21
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    If you use an acid fixer, Azo will reach Dmax in KRST 1+15 in about 3 minutes, I find, and in 4 minutes it will go purple brown. If you use TF-4, you'll reach Dmax in about 45 seconds in 1+15.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  2. #22

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    Great info! David, does Dmax include losing the green cast of the Azo? And you're talking Amidol development, right? Does it matter?

    dgh

    David G Hall

  3. #23
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    Selenium does correct a green cast if you're getting one. I've been developing in Agfa Neutol WA, but will start experimenting with Amidol soon. I don't find that Azo has a green cast with Neutol WA, though it does slightly with Dektol.

    Be sure to time your toning with Azo in selenium, though, and until you are sure of how it works with your particular combination, make sure you have some spare prints in case you go too far. When you cross the line from max black to purple-brown it's very sudden and irreversible. The purple-brown is actually kind of nice for certain images, and you can vary the extent of it with careful timing.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  4. #24
    jmcd's Avatar
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    Another possible solution to increase contrast with Azo and Agfa WA: yesterday I was printing a negative in WA 1:7, and the print was sharp and overall scene contrast about right, but murky flat in the darker tones. The negative was HP5+, and the scene was recorded in flat light. I made a tray of WA 1:4, and this increased the snappiness of the print to where I felt good about it.

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