Bostick-Sullivan: contact printing frames question

[Sanjay Sen]

Does anyone have any good methods for contact printing e.g. a 5x7 negative on an 8x10 or 11x14 piece of printing paper? I would like to center the image left to right and either center top to bottom or leave an extra bit more room at the bottom for title or signature without doing a bunch of trimming after processing.
Thanks,
Les

Like Don says...: How to Make a Centering Guide.

[Les]

When contact printing in a Bostick-Sullivan frame using e.g. a 5x7 negative on 8x10 or 11x14 paper, what is the best way to obtain a white border with clean sharp corners?
Les

[donbga]

When contact printing in a Bostick-Sullivan frame using e.g. a 5x7 negative on 8x10 or 11x14 paper, what is the best way to obtain a white border with clean sharp corners?
Les

You can cut a ruby-lith mask. Tape the neg. on top of the ruby lith with red masking tape. This will prevent light piping. and create a sharp edge with clean white borders.

The ruby lith isn't infallable though. If you have long exposure times the ruby-lith will leak UV light and cause the the coating to get enough exposure to create a dingy looking border.

I also tape the paper with painters tape to restrict the coated area to a minimum.

Hope this helps,

[Les]

Thanks Don,
I appreciate the help.
Les

[Mark Burley]

I cut a semi-adhesive masking film, lay it down on the paper (if self-coating) then coat using the film as a mask. This will give a perfect edge. I have also used Ruby Lith on pre-sensitized paper (not as good though).

I think I read somewhere that you can create your own masks with ruby Lith and acetate. As in create a series of masks to suit you. (The print industry has been doing this for years). Providing the Ruby is on the bottom - as the contact layer I believe it works. I have to say I have not tried it yet though.

I use a commercial printing plate contact frame (with a vacuum) so this gives me up to over sized A3 as an image area.

The previous posts have more than covered your original question though.

Mark.

[Deckled Edge]

I just think in the long run, buying a larger frame will save you money -- you won't have to buy a larger frame in the future, and the larger frame in handy to use for 8x10.

Vaughn

I agree. My first contact frame was an old Kodak 14x17, which I used for 5x7 and 8x10. Then, Durn, didn't I go out and buy a 7x17? Whaddayaknow--that fits, too!

Beware the glass: much new glass is UV resistant--you'll have 1 hour exposures with that stuff. Bubbles and scratches will grace every print. Inspect that glass, and trust no one.