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Heather and Ian, you're losing me. Maybe I'm not understanding. Why not just try a few different developers of varying contrast or vary dilution?
when I dupe to ortho film I just do strip tests and try different developers and dilutions. So I played with everything from PQ to full strength ID11 (1+0) to ID11 2+1 etc. Contrast control seems quite easy that way.
Maybe I am missing the point. Heather, can you clarify what it is that you need to rescue, do you have an example?
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Prints in the gallery of mine at the moment are from negs a little on the thin side and grade5 paper won't give me the pure white highlights that I want.
I just tried enlarging the neg onto lith film, doing my usual developing in multigrade 1+9 for 30-40 seconds and, nah, highlights are worse. Bad idea, doesn't work.
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Heather, so you are saying that your dupe lacks density, right? Am I understanding the issue?
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The original negative is lacking in density. I was hoping to up it a bit with more contrast etc by enlarging it but it didn't work. No big deal, just a crap negative.
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Ah in that case you probably will have an easier time by first intensifying or at least Se-toning your starting neg. That'll buy you a stop or two. Beyond that there is scanning. Now I understand what you and Ian were talking about by printing first.
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 Originally Posted by keithwms
Ah in that case you probably will have an easier time by first intensifying or at least Se-toning your starting neg. That'll buy you a stop or two. Beyond that there is scanning. Now I understand what you and Ian were talking about by printing first.
In my experience selenium toning typically adds about a half stop or so of denstiy to the highlights, not 1 to 2 stops.
Don Bryant
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dr5 does to 16x20 from up to 5x7 originals, interpositives or internegs.
regards
dw
 Originally Posted by maxbloom
DR5 only does up to 8x10 IIRC.
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