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  1. #11

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    Developing for one minute is ONLY for silver chloride paper. For enlarging paper, two, or probably better, three minutes, is what you should be aiming for. Try it and see if the yellow stain is still there.

    Michael A. Smith

  2. #12
    Bruce Osgood's Avatar
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    I've cut and pasted from the Pure-Silver list a Freestyle Photo response to the question of Yellowing Kentona:

    [pure-silver] Fwd: Kentona, response from Freestyle Photo
    From: Elias Roustom <elroustom@xxxxxxxxx>
    To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
    Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2008 08:19:30 -0500
    Hello Group, here's some useful information from our favorite b&w supplier:


    From: "Oliver Tan" <oliver@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
    Date: December 4, 2008 6:35:32 PM EST
    To: <elroustom@xxxxxxxxx>
    Subject: RE: Kentona, Sent By: Elias Roustom (71.233.146.100)

    Hi Elias,


    We know of this problem before. The reason why there are some stains on
    the paper is because Kentmere removed the cadmium that it originally
    came with. Basically, this changed the whole composition of the emulsion. A solution to correct this problem is to change developer and use distilled water. The less this paper soaks in chemicals, the better it will be for the paper also. If you are using a metol based developer, try switching to a phenidone base developer or vice versa. Water also plays a part in this chemical reaction that's why distilled water is
    suggested.

    Europe is trying to ban cadmium because it is a known carcinogenic.
    Manufacturers, not only in photography, but also in paints and others
    reformulated their ingredients to remove cadmium.

    Hope this clears up everything. Let us know if you need more information
    or have any more questions.

    Oliver Tan
    Retail Asst. Manager
    Freestyle Photographic Supplies
    oliver@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
    323.660.3460 x152

    -----Original Message-----
    From: elroustom@xxxxxxxxx [mailto:elroustom@xxxxxxxxx]
    Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2008 12:54 PM
    To: www.darkroom
    Subject: Kentona, Sent By: Elias Roustom (71.233.146.100)


    Are you at Freestyle aware of the problems people are having printing on Kentona? I've uploaded two prints onto Flickr to show the staining that
    is happening. http://www.flickr.com/photos/elroustom/3082943772/

    I've found a photo.net thread where others are seeing the same thing.
    Maybe between you and Kentmere you can figure it out. Unfortunately I
    have about 12 sheets left, and they're useless...

  3. #13
    Alex Hawley's Avatar
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    I had the same problem with Kentona and arrived at the answer purely by chance. I started mixing my PF 130 with distilled water solely due to the 130's long life. I wanted to reduce the chance of contamination as much as I could. Voila`! Kentona suddenly looked better. Also found that two to three minutes developing is needed.

    As much as I liked Kentona, there needs to be a grade 3 version of it. I never have had much success in getting contrast to increase very much.
    Semper Fi & God Bless America
    My Photography Blog

  4. #14
    gbenaim's Avatar
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    Alex, I thought the Kentona was a grade 3, they only call it 2 in England. LEaving it in longer, up to 4 mins, is supposed to give you more contrast. I solved the problem, btw, it just needed more development.

  5. #15
    Alex Hawley's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gbenaim View Post
    Alex, I thought the Kentona was a grade 3, they only call it 2 in England. LEaving it in longer, up to 4 mins, is supposed to give you more contrast. I solved the problem, btw, it just needed more development.
    Well, we all know there's lots of slop in the grade numbers. Comparing it to all the other papers I use or have used, I just can't seem to get it beyond about 2.5 even with extended development. I think Kentmere would have a real winner if they brought back a grade 3.
    Semper Fi & God Bless America
    My Photography Blog

  6. #16
    Shawn Dougherty's Avatar
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    First of all, Alex, I'm with you. Bring back Grade 3 Kentona!!! Even so, I love grade two.

    I have never experienced the "yellow". I use it with MAS Amidol (LOTS of KBR) and Ansco 130. I also use distilled water.

    I'm guessing Michael is correct, I never develop it (with Amidol) for less than 2 minutes.

    Edit: Looks like you figured it out already...
    Last edited by Shawn Dougherty; 12-06-2008 at 09:25 AM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: Missed a post

  7. #17
    michael9793's Avatar
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    I have a better Idea!!!!!!!!
    instead of switching developers or changing your whole system try a different paper. why should we be the ones to change our system for a company that changes things for the worst. Their MC paper can only be used with yellow and magenta. using it with a zone VI enlarger produces horrible results.( this info is on the sheet that comes with the paper) Instead of changing my system I found a paper that works with my system. That happens to be Oriental Seagull. Graded or MC this paper is hands down better than anything Kentmere can produce. Now you get yellowing.. My goodness what we will try to do to get a bad paper to work.

    P.S. I throw out over $300.00 of kentmere paper and cried about being so commented to a bad product. No I won't sell it because if I can't get good prints I'm not selling a bad product to someone just to here from them about the same problem.
    mja
    "Capturing an image is only one step of the long chain of events to create a beautiful Photograph” See my updated website: mandersenphotography.com

  8. #18
    Shawn Dougherty's Avatar
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    I'm surprised to hear that, Michael. The best contact prints I've ever made on any enlarging paper were made on Kentona. Hands down, not even close to anything else I have tried...

    As always it comes down to what works best for each individual.

  9. #19
    Alex Hawley's Avatar
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    It would be nice if all one's negatives would print well on a single grade paper. But, try as we might, that just never seems to happen. Kentona loves a good dense negative, one that prints with full tonality on just about anyone's grade 2. If there was a grade 3, I could just about standardize on using it. Things being what they are, Slavich comes in grades 2 through 4 and there's Ilford MG for the really tough ones. Slavich and Ilford are close enough in tone color that one doesn't get a noticeable shift in color when viewing the portfolio.
    Semper Fi & God Bless America
    My Photography Blog

  10. #20
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    There is a way to eliminate the yellow stain in all cases, I think.

    PE

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