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  1. #1
    gbenaim's Avatar
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    Kentona in Amidol looks Yellow

    Hi all,

    Just doing my first run of Azo in amidol, what a treat! I wanted to see how kentona compares in amidol, having heard such good things about it, but it comes out yellowish, in the same amidol that gives a very neutral azo print. Those of you w some experience, how do you control Kentona's color? I used 3 cc of KBr 10%, just so you know, and am using MAS's amidol formula for azo and artcraft amidol. Amidol waterbath is just an incredible tool!

    GB

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    Travis Nunn's Avatar
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    I don't have any experience with Kentona in amidol, but I did have a similar experience with Kentona and lith printing (yellowing borders and highlights).

    Here's a couple of threads to look over
    http://www.apug.org/forums/forum37/4...developer.html
    http://www.apug.org/forums/forum55/4...tml#post497732 (Read Juan's comment at the bottom of the first page)
    http://www.apug.org/forums/forum37/4...m-kentona.html

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  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by gbenaim View Post
    Hi all,

    Just doing my first run of Azo in amidol, what a treat! I wanted to see how kentona compares in amidol, having heard such good things about it, but it comes out yellowish, in the same amidol that gives a very neutral azo print. Those of you w some experience, how do you control Kentona's color? I used 3 cc of KBr 10%, just so you know, and am using MAS's amidol formula for azo and artcraft amidol. Amidol waterbath is just an incredible tool!

    GB
    GB, have you tried reducing the volume of KBr? Michael's formula calls for 1ml of 10% KBr for his Azo/amidol. I know it's a different product you're using it for but if you've not already reduced the KBr volume it might be worth a go?

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    Silverpixels5's Avatar
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    I used to get yellowing of kentona as well with Ansco 130. Seems the problem came from using a water stop followed by fixing with TF-4. I solved the problem by going from the developer to a citric acid stop, then a water bath, and then TF-4. Just was white as can be now.
    RL Foley

  5. #5
    gbenaim's Avatar
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    yellow kentona

    I should specify that the yellowish tone is not on the base, but on the silver itself, i.e. the actual dark tones. MAS's amidol formula calls for 2-3 ml of KBr 10%.

  6. #6
    Nicholas Lindan's Avatar
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    There has been talk of yellow stains with Kentona and Dektol on the Pure Silver mailing list. The consensus was that it was due to a defective batch of paper.
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  7. #7
    michael9793's Avatar
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    first of all comparing kentona to azo using amidol is like comparing how the grain in a tri-x 35mm neg to a t-max 100 8x10. there just isn't any comparison.

    sorry I know the truth hurts. LOL
    "Capturing an image is only one step of the long chain of events to create a beautiful Photograph” See my updated website: mandersenphotography.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by gbenaim View Post
    I should specify that the yellowish tone is not on the base, but on the silver itself, i.e. the actual dark tones. MAS's amidol formula calls for 2-3 ml of KBr 10%.
    Sorry, you're correct I was refering to my notes using 500ml of developer and not 1L. However MAS amidol recommends 6ml 10% KBr/litre for enlarging paper. Although thinking about it I would be surprised if its the KBr causing the yellowish tone.

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    Richard Boutwell's Avatar
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    Hi Gabby,

    is the yellow tone there while the print is still wet, or only after it has dried? Is it only in the dark tones, or uniformly yellow from the shadows to highlights?

    I used Kentona for only a couple printing sessions, but from what I can remember, it is slightly purple, not yellow. The only things I can think of is that it is a bad batch of paper, as someone else has suggested, or there is some contamination someplace in the process. Is it possible to post a scan in this thread so we can see what the problem is. I don't think it is the bromide; I tend to use a lot of it, and didn't have that problem.
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    gbenaim's Avatar
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    Hey Richard,

    The print was yellow wet, and I didn't wait til it dried, just chucked it and went back to the Azo. I'd rule out contamination because the Azo came out great every time, and it being a bad batch because I've used it before w Ansco 130 and it worked fine. All I can think of is that the print didn't develop fully at 1 minute, so next time I'll give it 2-3 and let it dry to see how it comes out.

    GB

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