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  1. #1
    BradS's Avatar
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    Lodima Fine Art - Developers?

    Ok, I know that one is supposed to develop Lodima Fine Art in Amidol but, what else works? or does not work? What are the disadvantages of using something like Dektol? or Agfa 130?

    Or would one be shunned, tarred and feathered for such heresy?

    (I've already been shunned for not freezing film and not using a spot meter)

  2. #2

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    Neutol WA works great.

  3. #3
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    Agfa 130 or Agfa Ansco (GAF) 130, this is one that differs between US Ansco and German Agfa developer which is MQ & no Glycin.

    Ian

  4. #4
    Shawn Dougherty's Avatar
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    I've found PF130 gives excellent results. Very close to what I achieve with amidol, though without the ability to use a water bath. I've found I prefer the color the amidol (MAS formula with extra KBr) gives...

    This has been discussed in several threads already, try a quick search for "lodima". Best. Shawn

  5. #5

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    Harman/Ilford WT diluted 1:9 for 1 minute gave pleasing results. Slightly warmer then Amidol. However I do prefer the 'look' that Amidol gives especially when combined with selenium toning.

    It is good practice to do some side by side tests to check out the subtleties this paper provides.

  6. #6

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    I believe you will learn some of what you need to know from the following article- which is referenced at MichaelandPaula.com., and is also on Ed Buffaloe's wonderfully informative site.

    http://www.michaelandpaula.com/mp/DJ_curves_article.htm

  7. #7
    gbenaim's Avatar
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    Brad,

    Though the ansco will get you pretty close to amidol, it isn't quite the same, and the ability to use a water bath cannot be overlooked. It's just an extra level of control and fine tuning that can make a big difference. I'd give it a try, and see what you think.

  8. #8

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    Brad,

    I think you will find Lodima to be a most versitile paper. I'm sure you could use almost any developer and get a print. The beauty of this paper (if it is ANYTHING like Azo) will be in the subtle changes in print color available from using different developers/toners etc. I enjoy the ability to use a waterbath and as such have just today purchased a large quantity of Amidol from Artcraft. The tone can be slightly varied by increasing the amount of Kbr added to the developer, extended toning will also give a slight color shift. I have also used Neutol WA and Dektol. I didn't like the color of Dektol. If I only need to make a couple quick prints I'll often mix up a litre of Neutol WA vs a batch of Amidol. I've never tried Ansco 130, but folks whose opinions I trust say it works pretty well.

    Personally, I've piggy backed on MAS' work and tend to follow his procedures.

    Isn't it great to be able to discuss a NEW product rather than mourning the loss of our old favorites!
    John Bowen

  9. #9
    Shawn Dougherty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgjbowen View Post
    Isn't it great to be able to discuss a NEW product rather than mourning the loss of our old favorites!
    Amen.

  10. #10
    c6h6o3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgjbowen View Post
    The tone can be slightly varied by increasing the amount of Kbr added to the developer, extended toning will also give a slight color shift.
    The test box of Lodima that I bought renders the most beautiful print color I've ever seen. I developed it in Artcraft amidol (MAS formula, 3cc KBr). I liked the color so much that I didn't tone it for fear that it would change. In this respect, at least, I find it superior to Azo.

    I can't understand the lengths to which people will go to avoid using amidol. I know that it's a PIA to get started with, because of all the ancillary chemicals you have to buy, but once you lay in a supply of those you won't use anything else. Quick and easy to mix, blackest of blacks on silver chloride paper.

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