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  1. #91
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    Dan,

    The staining properties of pyro developers are different from developer to developer, but the main idea is how blue sensitive contact papers react to the color of the stain, which then acts as a contrast enhancer.
    It can sometimes mask grain as well, although while contact printing, grain isn't going to be an issue.

    I wish you the best of luck in your endeavor, but it looks as though you're in good hands, so I will rest assured that you will be well taken very good care of. Remember to experiment; but don't stray with your materials too much. Consistency really is the ticket to amazing prints, and a constructive and critical thought process about pushing the boundaries and limits of what's available to you. You learn more by screwing up sometimes than if you get it right all the time.

    - Thomas

    Quote Originally Posted by DanielStone View Post
    thanks ken, MAS and JGJBOWEN,

    I really appreciate your answers! I just realized that this thread got out of hand, and I wanted to get it back on track .

    what is the reasoning for using pyro developers? after a while, does the staining effect on the negs go away/fade? Do different variations of pyro (weston's formula, standard pyro, pyrocat hd, etc...)? what differs in them?

    I've been using HC-110 and D-76 1:1 up until now for all my b/w film, what does the pyro do(besides staining, which helps keep highlights from blowing out?)

    I'm a complete novice in all of this, as you might already can assume . But I'm eager to learn, and wanting to start creating some art!

    blessings to all of you!

    jg, MAS, and KenS, I've sent you all PM's regarding what you offered.

    Blessings,

    Dan
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  2. #92
    DanielStone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Pritchard View Post
    This is a really entertaining thread. Keep it going!

    It is not whether you are part of a cult, it is whether you are in the right cult.

    Stick it to those uppity Leica guys. Yeah!!!
    leica's are nice, but deardorff's are better !

    I'm in the market soon for a Dear. V8, with a 300mm and a 165 S.A.(eventually).

    maybe also with a 4x5 red. back....

    central cali here I come .

    -Dan


  3. #93
    DanielStone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas Bertilsson View Post
    Dan,

    The staining properties of pyro developers are different from developer to developer, but the main idea is how blue sensitive contact papers react to the color of the stain, which then acts as a contrast enhancer.
    It can sometimes mask grain as well, although while contact printing, grain isn't going to be an issue.

    I wish you the best of luck in your endeavor, but it looks as though you're in good hands, so I will rest assured that you will be well taken very good care of. Remember to experiment; but don't stray with your materials too much. Consistency really is the ticket to amazing prints, and a constructive and critical thought process about pushing the boundaries and limits of what's available to you. You learn more by screwing up sometimes than if you get it right all the time.

    - Thomas
    thanks Thomas, I'm trying to find a copy of G.H.'s "book of pyro"

    its out of print, right?

    -Dan


  4. #94

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    Pyro is not wysiwyg. For those who use Pyro, how are you judging the proper print exposure? A UV Densitometer? Except for a brief attempt with Pyro, I've been using Rodinal for my negs; and the contrast range seems good for Lodima as well as pt/pd. I do use a regular densitometer for it cuts down on the number of working prints needed to get to a final print. A regular densitometer can be acquired rather cheaply off the auction site; but you can also use a light table and step wedge for a visual determination. Create a mask with two holes - one for step wedge and other for your negative. Visually pick the highest density of your neg and compare it to the step wedge. Keep notes, and when you've achieved good exposure for a print, use the neg reading as a guide for future prints.
    van Huyck Photo
    "Progress is only a direction, and it's often the wrong direction"

  5. #95

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    Quote Originally Posted by DanielStone View Post
    unfortunately, I can't afford to run any other alt. processes right now. my budget is REALLY thin :o

    eventually though!

    -Dan
    a bit off topic, but one way to save cash is to buy Xray film instead of brand name sheet film. its just regular ortho film that is incredibly cheap, available in large sizes, and easy to work with.

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