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  1. #11
    Vaughn's Avatar
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    Try a little of the clear sticky tape to tape two corners of the paper negative to the glass. You may not see any of the tape in the image.

    -V
    At least with LF landscape, a bad day of photography can still be a good day of exercise.

  2. #12

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    sometimes getting the receiving paper
    so the emulsions stick together will work ... sometimes i am off a tiny bit
    and i just trim the print to square it off ..
    silver magnets, trickle tanks sold
    artwork often times sold for charity
    PM me for details

  3. #13
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    I do my contacting the way you do with glass. I use a large piece of quarter inch plate glass. If you try to put the glass down to quickly there is a current of air created that will move the film on top. You have to lower the glass slowly and let the air escape till you are holding the glass as close as possible before setting it all the way down. I much prefer this to using the print frame. Quicker and easier.
    Dennis

  4. #14
    Jon Shiu's Avatar
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    I have heard paper negs can be contact printed wet. Haven't ever done it myself, though.

    Jon
    Mendocino Coast Black and White Photography: www.jonshiu.com

  5. #15
    Toffle's Avatar
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    The problem is that printing papers are not perfectly flat. There is often a bit of upward curl on the emulsion side. It occurs to me that giving the paper neg a little curl the opposite direction might be helpful... if the edges/corners rather than the center of the negative are in contact with the printing paper when setting the glass, there would possibly be less risk of movement.

    Thoughts?
    Last edited by Toffle; 09-28-2009 at 11:59 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    Tom, on Point Pelee, Canada

    Ansel Adams had the Zone System... I'm working on the points system. First I points it here, and then I points it there...

    http://tom-overton-images.weebly.com


  6. #16
    JBrunner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toffle View Post
    The problem is that printing papers are not perfectly flat. There is often a bit of upward curl on the emulsion side. It occurs to me that giving the paper neg a little curl the opposite direction might be helpful... if the edges/corners rather than the center of the negative are in contact with the printing paper when setting the glass, there would possibly be less risk of movement.

    Thoughts?
    That is why you use felt or foam on the bottom.

  7. #17
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    Tom,

    Gradually we are giving you reasons why printing frames are so attractive. If you go this route I would suggest an 8x10 frame which leaves room for the 5x7 paper and some moving around. I have gotten two different sizes from Bostick & Sullivan that I like (8x10 for 4x5 negs and 11x14 for 8x10 negs). Our friend Bill Schwab built the one I have for 7x17. My guess is that he is a little busy with other things now, but you never know. Be sure to find one with strong springs on the back or you end up no better than just the glass.

    John Powers

  8. #18
    Joe VanCleave's Avatar
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    I use a sheet of black craft foam under the sandwich, smaller slightly than the contact glass itself. Then I place the print paper face-up on the sheet of foam. Then I place the paper negative (RC paper) face down, centered as well as I can on the print paper. There's usually some curl to the paper negative, so it's hard to center the negative properly at first. Next, I place the sheet of glass over the sandwich, then with little or no pressure on the glass I move it laterally, which has the effect of sliding the upper paper negative against the lower print paper, enabling me to fine tune the alignment of both. Then I apply full pressure on the glass and hit the switch for the printing light source.

    I think the black craft foam helps the lower print paper to stay put while the upper paper negative is permitted to move.

    ~Joe

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jon Shiu View Post
    I have heard paper negs can be contact printed wet. Haven't ever done it myself, though.

    Jon
    yup, works well ...
    and it is FREE
    silver magnets, trickle tanks sold
    artwork often times sold for charity
    PM me for details

  10. #20
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    I agree with many of those suggestions. I do it like this: tape the negative to the glass after removing dust from the negative and glass. Use foam that is dark gray or black. Set the paper on the foam. Then you should be able to see well enough line it up reasonably well by moving the glass. Unless you are printing thin negatives at less than MIN-TIME-FOR-MAX-BLACK the clear tape should not show up in the prints.

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