Printing Out Frames... I might make some..

[vickersdc]

Hi all,

Having embarked on a journey with my FKD camera, and using paper negatives, I'm thinking about printing a positive using a printing out frame. I'd like to make a 'proper' one, with a hinged sprung back, felt padding, likely to be of Oak, proper threaded inserts and brass knobs to adjust the spring tension.

But in order to make it worthwhile ordering the stainless steel to make the springs, I'll likely need to make several - not a problem, but I won't need twenty of the things!

First off, is anyone interested in a 10x8" printing out frame? If I can get a rough idea of numbers first, then I can work out the cost of making one.

So, I'm only interested in finding out if this is something that others might be interested in - I certainly won't be taking anyone to task if they change their mind!

Cheers,
David.

[Jerevan]

I'd be interested to know more. What sort of price are you thinking of? I am also thinking it might be a good idea to make the frame area slightly bigger than 8x10" to accomodate some space around an 8x10" negative for those who might need that.

[Trevor Crone]

David, I would be interested, but would of course largely depend on cost.

Will you be incorporating channels for the spring clips to seat in when the back is closed? I find without these small slithers of the wood frame start to break off and of course sods law states, that these specks of debris find there way onto the print surface

[vickersdc]

Jerevan: I think you might be right, I was thinking 8x10 as my FKD is 18cmx24cm and an 8x10 frame is a little bit bigger for me! Point taken In fact, it might even be worth making a 4x5 frame and an 8x10 frame if there's demand enough to do so.

Trevor Crone: Cost is the biggest issue of course, and at the moment I don't know how much it'll be. I could use Pine rather than Oak to keep costs down, but I'd rather make something that isn't going to fall apart a year down the line! Although it doesn't have to be Oak, it's just what I have in my workshop at the moment!

Spring clips... I'd need to draw it really, but I envisage having a long spring clip running across the back which engages with a brass knob on either side. Screwing down the knob would apply the pressure to the back. To prevent the thread from being pulled out of the wood, I'd be using proper thread inserts designed for use in wood. The brass knobs would be machined specially to fit these units and the spring clip. Perhaps I really should make that drawing...

[jp80874]

Remember that for many purposes you want a frame a size larger than your camera. For platinum I started with a 4x5 camera and got an 8x10 frame from Bostick and Sullivan. When I went to an 8x10 camera I wanted an 11x14 frame from B&S. Bill Schwab made a frame for 7x17 that is 11.75" x 21" over all. The paper and brush strokes are larger than the negative. Good luck in your venture. Nothing like beautiful hand made wood work.

John Powers

[vickersdc]

Thanks for the info John, (it's been a long time since we chatted (back in the 'early days' of Creative Image Maker) - hope you are well?).

Those B&S frames... do the leaf springs just twist round and lock into the sides of the frame? I'm sure that works and it's cheaper to make, but I want brass knobs! I've sourced a small supply already and I've got access to a lathe to make them just how I want them; but it also means that if someone needed an easier way to tension the spring, or was not as dextrous with their fingers anymore, then I could create a tensioning knob to suit.

I've also been thinking about a way of creating a stand so that you could either lay the unit flat under an enlarger, or pull some legs out to position it if you're using the sun as your light source...

[David A. Goldfarb]

I wouldn't bother with the legs. I usually just use book stands, like you might use to hold a cookbook open, to hold the frames up toward the sun. Scanners are also very useful for this purpose--

http://www.apug.org/forums/forum43/2...tml#post323118

[jp80874]

Thanks for the info John, (it's been a long time since we chatted (back in the 'early days' of Creative Image Maker) - hope you are well?).

Those B&S frames... do the leaf springs just twist round and lock into the sides of the frame? I'm sure that works and it's cheaper to make, but I want brass knobs! I've sourced a small supply already and I've got access to a lathe to make them just how I want them; but it also means that if someone needed an easier way to tension the spring, or was not as dextrous with their fingers anymore, then I could create a tensioning knob to suit.

I've also been thinking about a way of creating a stand so that you could either lay the unit flat under an enlarger, or pull some legs out to position it if you're using the sun as your light source...

I am well thank you and having fun shooting ULF. Hope you are doing at least as well.

The B&S frames have stainless steel leaf springs and piano hinge. The springs are adjusted with a 3/8” nut. I have forgotten what this nut is called. It has a nylon insert that helps keep it from working loose. Bill Schwab used brass and the adjustment is made by a slotted head brass machine screw. In all three the springs twist around and lock in a slot in the wood frame.

Though I have arthritis in my hands I can adjust either the nut with a box wrench (spanner) or the screw with a screw driver quite easily. The elegant tensioning knob would certainly personalize your work, but IMHO be a waste of effort and expense.

What does get the arthritis calling is if the leaf spring does not slide right into the slot and you have to push it in several times to make the connection. When I complained of this problem years ago, I was told there were two solutions. Get a vacuum frame or take two aspirin and call him in the morning. The person did not say what I should call him in the morning.

I use my frames under an enlarger for silver or a uv source for platinum and have not felt the need for a stand. My first concern would be that it might be less stable than the frame itself on the table.

Good luck with your project. It is always a pleasure in this artistic pursuit to find beautiful hand made tools to accompany our hopefully beautiful hand made prints. This is one of the reasons that after selling software for twenty years it was a delight to shoot film rather than go digital and continue to work with software when I retired.

John

[RobertP]

" I have forgotten what this nut is called." Nyloc maybe? Its basically a lock nut.

[vickersdc]

Though I have arthritis in my hands I can adjust either the nut with a box wrench (spanner) or the screw with a screw driver quite easily. The elegant tensioning knob would certainly personalize your work, but IMHO be a waste of effort and expense.

What does get the arthritis calling is if the leaf spring does not slide right into the slot and you have to push it in several times to make the connection. When I complained of this problem years ago, I was told there were two solutions. Get a vacuum frame or take two aspirin and call him in the morning. The person did not say what I should call him in the morning.
John

Hmmm, wouldn't it be nicer to not have to use additional tools to get something to work?

By the way, thank you all for your comments so far - I'll have to get some drawings made up, or if possible get a frame made up (even if at a slightly smaller size), that way we could refine the approach and go from there.

Thank you,
David.