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Thread: Fomalux 111

  1. #41

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    Henry: Hearing about the "problems" with the Chinese Amidol suggested that purchasing the Amidol from Art Craft would make life much easier. I can tell you that the Amidol from Art Craft is absolutely a joy to work with. Goes easily into solution, very little "dirt and grime" left in the developing tray, no need to filter, etc., etc. Life is difficult enough without having to filter Amidol! One might conceivably save a few bucks with the Chinese Amidol, but is the savings worth the worry, time, and hassles?

    Ed

  2. #42
    Shawn Dougherty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by c6h6o3 View Post
    Quite an understatement. Using MAS's formula, you would be adding 0.15 grams (1.5ml of a 10% solution) to your 500ml of working solution. Your recipe is equivalent to adding 40ml of 10% KBr to the MAS 1 liter working solution of amidol.
    I know, you pointed this out to me in another thread. =) Might be that I'm making up for the restrainer by adding an extra gram of amidol per 500ml... I use about 3 grams of KBr if I mix 1L of solution. That said I get jet blacks in 1 minute, developer still works the next day when covered with saran wrap and the paper is just a gorgeous warm color...

    Lodima seems most flexible. That Ilya cat is always posting unusual yet lovely colored Lodima scans. I wonder what he's doing to achieve them? Toners?

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mahler_one View Post
    Life is difficult enough without having to filter Amidol! One might conceivably save a few bucks with the Chinese Amidol, but is the savings worth the worry, time, and hassles?
    It certainly is nasty stuff to work with, but the Chinese amidol seems to render a blacker black. Subjective judgment, I know, but it seems that way to me. I don't print with it very much as I still have a pound or so of Artcraft, but I'm not sure that the price is the only advantage to the Chinese stuff.

    Maybe I'll give your recipe a try, Shawn, as there's nothing cheaper than KBr.
    Jim

  4. #44

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mahler_one View Post
    Henry: Hearing about the "problems" with the Chinese Amidol suggested that purchasing the Amidol from Art Craft would make life much easier. I can tell you that the Amidol from Art Craft is absolutely a joy to work with. Goes easily into solution, very little "dirt and grime" left in the developing tray, no need to filter, etc., etc. Life is difficult enough without having to filter Amidol! One might conceivably save a few bucks with the Chinese Amidol, but is the savings worth the worry, time, and hassles?

    Ed
    Other than having to filter it I don't know of any problems. It dissolves almost instantly (except for the solids that get filtered out) and produces incredible prints. I got 10 kg with the initial order and have bought more from individuals since then. I think I am at the point where I won't need to buy anymore amidol for a very long time.

  5. #45

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    Quote Originally Posted by henrysamson View Post
    I plan to pick a negative and make several prints (all exposed the same) and increase the KBr in the tray by 1 ml for each print and then compare them after they are toned and dried.
    Henry,

    I've done this. I'd recommend you start with ZERO Kbr in the amidol. You'll get one of the coldest untoned prints you'll ever see. From there I added Kbr in 2ml (10% solution) increments until I got to something like 10 or 12ml/ltr of amidol. I did this with Rochester Grade 2, Canadian Grade 2 and Canadian Grade 3 Azo. I'll have to look to see if I did this with Lodima at the same time. What I experienced was a warming of tone. I want to warn you that Kbr is a restrainer and as the amount got much above 6ml/ltr the prints needed additional exposure to compensate for the added restrainer in the developer.

    I have so much Azo/Lodima I've decided to put together a notebook. The notebook contains images all made from the same negative but using different emulsions of Azo/Lodimia paper in different developers. Early on I noticed how much different Azo looked when developed in Dektol, Amidol or Neutol WA. I figure some day I'll have an image that just screams for a particular tone. I expect the notebook to help me decide just what combination of paper/developer will fill that need.

    I'd encourage you to complete the work with the various amount of Kbr, you'll learn a lot.

    Good Luck Henry,

    John
    John Bowen

  6. #46

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    Quote Originally Posted by henrysamson View Post
    Other than having to filter it I don't know of any problems. It dissolves almost instantly (except for the solids that get filtered out) and produces incredible prints. I got 10 kg with the initial order and have bought more from individuals since then. I think I am at the point where I won't need to buy anymore amidol for a very long time.
    Am I missing something here? My Chinese Amidol turns the prints a gawd awful yellow. It takes about 5-10 minutes for it to wash out, but in the meantime I have a hard time judging the highlights of the print. I've switched back to Artcraft Amidol and only keep the Chinese stuff around in case the world stops producing Amidol all together. Life is too short to spend 5-10 minutes/print waiting for the yellow stain to disappear so I can properly judge the prints highlights. Henry, do you experience this yellowing with your Chinese Amidol? How about the rest of you?

    Thanks,
    John
    John Bowen

  7. #47
    Shawn Dougherty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgjbowen View Post
    My Chinese Amidol turns the prints a gawd awful yellow. It takes about 5-10 minutes for it to wash out, but in the meantime I have a hard time judging the highlights of the print. How about the rest of you?

    Thanks,
    John
    Same here. I can live with the other problems but rinsing until I can properly judge the highlights is a real problem for me.

    Maybe 3 years ago I ordered Amidol from PF. I got a chunky black version that had to be filtered - BUT - it did NOT turn the prints yellow like that.... I thought THAT was Chinese amidol which is why I recently bought a pound - and discovered the yellow stain....

  8. #48

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    Amen John!

    John, what a fabulous idea....a notebook that provides guidance as to the amount of KBR, or the "correct developer", so that you can render the tone of the print according to your wishes. Such notebook might be something others using Lodima would consider buying....!

    John-quick question. Have you used Amidol with the Fomalux, or another paper ( for example, EMaks ), when contact printing? One might be excused for wondering if Lodima will "always" be available and it would be nice to have a ready alternative-heaven forbid.

  9. #49

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    Have any of you guys tried ansco 130? And, if so, how do you find the color compared to amidol? I just got the new fomalux in the mail, I'll be able to do some tests this weekend, with ansco 130 (since that is all I have), so I guess I'll answer my own question to a certain degree.

  10. #50
    Shawn Dougherty's Avatar
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    I love 130 with enlarging papers but have found that (at 1:1) it produces cooler results than amidol (loaded with KBr or with the MAS version). Which seems strange to me because it produces somewhat warm tones for me with Kentona, Emaks and of course MG Warmtone...

    I no longer use 130 with silver chloride as I've found the water bath with amidol to be invaluable.

    I received my Fomalux 111 yesterday and should be printing with it tonight. Will post results here and scans in the gallery tomorrow.
    Last edited by Shawn Dougherty; 08-26-2010 at 12:46 PM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: forgot a 1

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