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  1. #11

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    When I was using the Philips tanning lamp (which of course had 'white' tubes) I was only using the Centennial POP. They took about 35-40minutes IIRC. It was then that I decided to make my own printer in the belief that I could reduce printing times. By the time I had finished the box, POP was no more so I looked for something else and started making Argyroypes with Fotospeed's solution BUT with d***l negs. They took only 7 minutes. I have some solution left and will use it with FP4+ which I am using now. It will be a useful experiment. I am wondering if the film base is not as suitable for tubes as Pictorico.

  2. #12
    Ian Leake's Avatar
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    Hi Colin.

    I don't do salt printing, but I can say with certainty that FP4+ film base is fine for UV processes.

    I did a platinum printing workshop a couple of weeks ago and the student brought some FP4+ negatives developed for salt prints. I can't remember the details of his times or process, but the salt prints he showed me were really good.

  3. #13

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    You also might look at your negatives. If they are exposed at the same EI you use for silver printing, they could be way too dense. I found this out when I first started platinum printing. I was rating my tri-x at 200 (the same as I shoot for silver). I now rate it at 400 or higher, depending on the development. In effect, I was overexposing the negative and I had to print through the extra exposure with linger times under the UV box.

  4. #14

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    Allen you could be on the right track! I have not made a proper film/exp test(shame on me). It could be the cause, although the image looks OK this is the first time I've use Pyro so don't really know what they should look like. (I feel stupid even writing this!) I'm out of time for the next few days but will make some tests before I blow money on other more expensive alternatives - tubes.
    I WILL post my next trial results. Thank you Ian for putting my mind at rest about FP4+
    Colin

  5. #15

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    Well,, I'm going to 'test' my exp/dev process over the weekend, so the question here is do I do it in the usual silver print way.
    1) make a neg for Z.I and do the normal test strip to find correct film speed
    2) with that information make a neg for Z.IX and dev to find best dev time?
    Two problems I have in mind is 1) I have read that salts can show separation up as far as Z.XI. If that is the case should I be aiming to find dev time for Z.IX or XI?
    Or am I making a simple process difficult?
    ALSO I have found that when I have had to extend the print time up to 40-60+ minutes (every 15 minutes has to have a cooling down time) I find the paper has a silver metallic finish! Might this be caused by the heat which builds up or too much silver solution? I use 0.4ml for a 5x4 image.
    Any information gratefully received

  6. #16
    Jerevan's Avatar
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    Colin,

    I was thinking of salt printing and that you mentioned it in this thread the other day. Then I remembered this old thread: http://www.apug.org/forums/forum42/2...n-recipes.html. Maybe it has some use, an informative thread anyway.
    “Do your work, then step back. The only path to serenity.” - Lao Tzu

  7. #17

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    Jerevan
    Thanks for the link; interesting but my main problem seems to be the length of time for printing. I have been doing some more tests over the weekend and 2 things seem to have been learnt;
    1) I need to put a fan on my printer as exposures are still going to be in the 25-30 minutes area and everything gets hot which I think is the cause of silvery-metallic metal apparently being formed on the paper surface.
    2) All my tests are empirical as I do not have densitometers etc, so it is a longish process.

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