Night Photography

[brYan]

Has anybody read this book?

It looks interesting enough to buy it. I've been thinking of doing some work using the moon as a light source, then maybe later work with city lights.

[Eric Rose]

I have been thinking about using IR film at night with a IR light source for localized illumination on certain objects within the frame. I have a night vision device and when you flick on the IR illuminator it sure has a surreal effect.

[Robert Kennedy]

Weegee did some IR photography inside movie theaters. Very unique work. He used IR bulbs to capture people as they watched the screen. Truly different.

[RAP]

Night photography is A LOT of fun and can offer a new vantage point in which to shoot. One area I have been working on is using street light, riot light subjects in black and white. Some of the areas you get into can be pretty seedy, but bring a friend with a bazooka to stand guard, and you should not have any problems.

Street light gives a very sharp, one directional light that accentuates texture and sharpens the lines of the subject before the lens. I personally try not to include any light sources into the image, but focus on what is illuminated by the light source.

Street light also mutes the contrast, but don't try to increase the contrast with n+1 development or filters. Just shoot what is their. The effect has a feel all its own. If you are an insomniac, give it a try.

[Robert Kennedy]

I assume you are also using high speed film. I find that night shots with 3200 are really fun. The gritty look you get is great and can add to an image.

I alos find that 3200 coupled iwth a decent flash will give you a LOT of illumination if you need it. It stretches out the flash quite a bit. That can be fun to play with.

[lee]

why not use regular film and do the city streets? It can be very effective. Just use a tripod and maybe a large format camera.

lee\c

[Aggie]

..

[RAP]

I primarily use Tri-x @ asa 200 in HC110 which require exposures of 2 to 5 minutes @ f22 to 32. I have also used Tmax 100 asa 50 as well which requires twice the exposure but prefer the tri-x because of its lower threshold. Use a spot meter to determin exposure and do not be afraid to place the high values on zone vii or viii. The best thing to do is experiment to get the feel for it. Keep good records so you know what you did right or wrong.

[bmac]

I would suggest using a slower speed film. You are going to have to use a tripod anyway. I shoot my night photos with Tmax rated at 80. I meter the brightest light and increase exposure by 10X. Develop with N-1 or N-2. Usually gets some interesting results.

[RAP]

I just caught your response. I have used Tmax in the past but my preference is Tri-X @ ASA 200 because it has a much lower threshold then Tmax 100 and when developed in HC110 diluted 1/46 or 1/62 from concentrate, gives a nice compensating effect so that the shadows and low values have plenty of seperation. I shoot mostly 4x5 so I also want the extra speed for smaller aperatures.

As for light sources in the picture, I avoid it as muh as possible. The contrast range is way to high so they are generally distracting, over domineering in the picture. Street lights as a light source are high enough and unidirectional to accentuate textures and sharpen lines so that it sculpts the subject much like hard studio lighting. I like the effect very much and produce dramatic results.