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  1. #21
    analoguey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrBaz View Post
    Full manual and a pre-planned measurement trial and error is all good, but completely useless for a mobile setup where you cannot control every aspect of the lighting.

    Utilizing a setup capable of TTL can still allow you to control the lighting via ratios without worrying about exposure as much. Yeah, all of you are so awesome when it comes to a studio setup where once you have everything measured out it never moves, but that is completely useless when it comes to a often-changed setup inside, outside, morning, sunny, beach, snow, etc. Digital gives you the flexibility of trial-and-error on the spot, but that is not capable with film.

    I can either setup everything and take light measurements for the next 20 minutes, which are pointless if the outside ambient light changes. Using a setup capable of TTL speedlights allows me more control than any setup you guys are offering.

    Was thinking how did people actually figure out usage of multiple lights pre-digital. Let's say on location or shoots where they might not have access to hot lights.
    Would a flash meter also calculate for many flashes/lights as well?
    Or would one go by the official guide no or measured guide no and then set up flashes - say if using 3-4 numbers with slow speed film?

    Sent from Tap-a-talk

  2. #22
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    It's not as simple as using multiple flashes and T.T.L flash metering which will give you correct exposure it's about being able to calculate the ratio of contrast produced in the picture by several light sources and their relationship with each other which requires a flash meter, because you can get the exposure correct but the lighting balance all wrong.
    Last edited by benjiboy; 03-12-2014 at 06:31 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    Ben

  3. #23
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    A few years ago I took a portrait lighting class, and one of the primary lessons in the course was how to use the flash meter. You take multiple meter readings to determine your main light and the ratio of the fill, accent, etc. lights. The meter will help you do this, but you have to do the calculations yourself. As Benji said.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheFlyingCamera View Post
    A few years ago I took a portrait lighting class, and one of the primary lessons in the course was how to use the flash meter. You take multiple meter readings to determine your main light and the ratio of the fill, accent, etc. lights. The meter will help you do this, but you have to do the calculations yourself. As Benji said.
    That's right Scott, in fact on modern studio flashes you can control theflash output in 1/10th of a stop increments and they have proportional modeling lights, and with the latest Sekonic Litemaster Pro http://www.sekonic.com/products/l-478d/overview.aspxyou can adjust the output of each flash with the light meter touch screen via the radio module from the camera position.
    Ben

  5. #25
    analoguey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by benjiboy View Post
    It's not as simple as using multiple flashes and T.T.L flash metering which will give you correct exposure it's about being able to calculate the ratio of contrast produced in the picture by several light sources and their relationship with each other which requires a flash meter, because you can get the exposure correct but the lighting balance all wrong.
    Indeed.
    Thats exactly why I asked the question. I don't use multiple TTLs myself. Figuring out stuff w digital itself is educating.
    So even with a light meter one would need quite a few readings.
    Hmm.

    Sent from Tap-a-talk

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by analoguey View Post
    Indeed.
    Thats exactly why I asked the question. I don't use multiple TTLs myself. Figuring out stuff w digital itself is educating.
    So even with a light meter one would need quite a few readings.
    Hmm.

    Sent from Tap-a-talk
    I meter he main light, the fill in light the backlight and the background to give me an idea of the contrast ratio between them and adjust the lighting if necessary by either adjusting the flash power levels or moving the flashes nearer or further away from the sitter. With modern Sekonic flash meters you can average up to 9 meter reading if you press the average button to integrate the readings to give the final total exposure.
    Ben

  7. #27
    TheFlyingCamera's Avatar
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    Actually, if you know what you're doing with your lighting, your base exposure is set by your main light. All other meter readings are to determine contrast ratio relative to the main light.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheFlyingCamera View Post
    Actually, if you know what you're doing with your lighting, your base exposure is set by your main light. All other meter readings are to determine contrast ratio relative to the main light.
    That's quite correct Scott, it's just that I like to asses the lighting ratios first with the flat incidental receptor on my meter then I meter the main and fill in light with the hemispherical receptor to get the camera setting reading. Well it works for me
    Ben

  9. #29
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    The proof of course is in the pudding - if you're getting the results you want from the technique you use, that's what counts.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by benjiboy View Post
    That's quite correct Scott, it's just that I like to asses the lighting ratios first with the flat incidental receptor on my meter then I meter the main and fill in light with the hemispherical receptor to get the camera setting reading. Well it works for me
    Quote Originally Posted by benjiboy View Post
    I meter he main light, the fill in light the backlight and the background to give me an idea of the contrast ratio between them and adjust the lighting if necessary by either adjusting the flash power levels or moving the flashes nearer or further away from the sitter. With modern Sekonic flash meters you can average up to 9 meter reading if you press the average button to integrate the readings to give the final total exposure.
    With flashes, I'm presuming you're using the meter while you trigger them one by one? Or am I getting it wrong?

    I don't use a meter - well standalone meter, if you excuse the digital camera. And I usually go down by two f stops from the ambient, while setting the flashes for quick cycle times.

    I am wondering if I using a similar approach to yours -albeit with the digital, would help?

    Sent from Tap-a-talk

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