Aside from the off chance your 358 is sick, I'd still go back into its settings menus and check for any dialed in compensation and zero it. I'm not getting the point of your incident metering technique in either setting. Ratios??? Have you simply taken a single outdoor incident reading with the dome pointed at the camera, at, say, ISO 200, dialed in the setting manually on your dslr and checked the results?
Originally Posted by Matthew Wagg
I think there is adjustment to bias the reading to what you like but it would effect flash reading as well.
Don't believe all you read, the Sekonic Grey Card is 18% Grey and that's what the meters are calibrated for http://www.warehouseexpress.com/buy-...-card/p1009297
Originally Posted by floatingchildsface
I've read online that in use IF you read the Kodak instructions, you don't hold the card straight up but at an angle and when held at that angle it's actually 12.5%.
I believe this was from a writer of columns for one mag or another.
A motorcyclist is the only one who understands why a dog rides with it's head out the window.
"I had an idea once, it died of loneliness"--George
The meter can be calibrated to take into account filters e.g. +1.6 (varies for each filter). Baseline calibration is with ISO 1 and ISO 2 buttons pressed simultaneously.
The meter does not require any additional calibration on the premise of making sure the exposure is correct — that is your responsibility, gained through active experience using the meter.
I would ignore most online commentary regarding the Sekonic baseline mid-tone calibration: it is not particularly well-informed.
Canon EOS1N ('Brutus', 1993—), TS-E 24mm f3.5L, 20mm f2.8, 17-40 f4L, 70-200 f2.8L
Pentax 67 ('Pentaximus', 2010—) + SMCP 45mm f4, 55mm f4 & 165mm f4LS;
Zero Image 6x9 multi-format pinhole (2008—); Sekonic L758D;
Olympus XA, Nikon Coolpix P7700
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If you just got the meter, why do you suspect that it's off???
I had a 358 for several years, then replaced it with a 558 to get the spot capability.
I found both of them to be right on. Sekonic meters are accurately calibrated at the factory.
Proper exposure has a lot to do with your shooting and processing habits.
If the meter doesn't produce what you want after a lot of experimentation, then adjust it.
“Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something.” - Plato
I use one, both in the studio and outside.
Never had any problems.
Remember that what your camera meters and what your meter is reading, can differ greatly, depending on what metering mode you have set your camera to, the meter doesn't have spot readings either, not matrix, not center weighted etc.
I don't know....I just trust it, but I make sure to meter correctly and several times to avoid any misreadings/errors on my part when I am outside.
Unless you carry and take readings off 18% gray cards, the issue with 18% is irrelevant.
Originally Posted by floatingchildsface
Your meter has a built-in gray reference (the white dome), and your meter is calibrated to its own dome. As long as the meter is not out of whack, you should be able to use it with factory settings.
I enjoy discussing the different factors, but the bottom line of what I have learned is that the important factors are there for a reason and they are built into the calibration standards.
My simplest advice: Set the EI in your meter at the rated or actual speed of your film, and then change the EI if you find out you have to.
If you change the way you meter, like if you decide to start doing BTZS (Beyond the Zone System) metering techniques, then you might have to change your EI again.
Traditional Zone System spot metering with traditional N development often results in EI approximately half the rated speed. That's what I do and is why my EI is 2/3 stop "lower" than the actual speed of the film.
I have one of those, and it has a series of patches centered on 18%. (So nominally the card is 18%). But I believe the way you use it attempts to "place" the exposure on 18%. You meter with incident light and shoot the card with a camera. Then you analyze the results.
Originally Posted by benjiboy
You'll be pleased to know that the incident light reading does NOT agree with a spotmeter reading off 18%. It agrees more closely with a spotmetering off the 12.7% patch!
Last edited by Bill Burk; 02-09-2012 at 08:08 PM. Click to view previous post history.
I have 2 of the 358s and they are highly reliable.
No other piece of equipment I own adds more to any shot.
I can hardly imagine it providing you a problem.
Mark Barendt, Ignacio, CO
"The mind that opens to a new idea never returns to its original size." Albert Einstein