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  1. #11
    Steve Smith's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leigh Youdale View Post
    Do NOT, under any circumstances connect either the units themselves or the USA supplied leads to our 240v power supply. You might fry yourself as well as the lights.
    More likely to just blow the fuse. Not very likely to fry yourself. Even so, don't do it!



    Steve.
    "People who say things won't work are a dime a dozen. People who figure out how to make things work are worth a fortune" - Dave Rat.

  2. #12
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    Hi Holly

    OK. here's the good news.

    A step down transformer is really a very simple solution. You plug one end into the wall socket and plug the light into the outlet on the transformer. The only thing that is important is that the transformer is big enough for the load.

    NOW The Bad News.

    I've done some more digging on the technical data that you will see at the back of your manual (it's online) and the connected load of the 600RX is **1500VA** This means that a 500W transformer *isn't big enough* - - it must be rated at least 1500W.

    THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT INFORMATION. **DO NOT** BUY "ANY OLD TRANSFORMER". YOU **MUST** MAKE SURE IT HAS A HIGH ENOUGH RATING FOR THE LOAD.

    You are going to need either two 1500W transformers or a single 3000W transformer with two outlets
    http://www.invertershop.com.au/240v-...1500-watt.html
    http://www.invertershop.com.au/240v-...3000-watt.html

    Unfortunately the cost goes up........ I see the 1500W is out of stock at this store. You COULD buy a 2000W unit instead. It doesn't matter if they are bigger than the load, they just mustn't be smaller.

    You may find step down transformers cheaper than the links I have found. Any 240-120 step down transformer will work *provided* it has a high enough wattage rating.

    I have had a look through the manuals, and there is no "voltage selector switch" unfortunately on the lights, and thinking about what these are doing - charging the flash etc, I suspect the power circuits are dedicated to the voltage. Please totally ignore Steve's advice to try running them in series. (Sorry Steve) this is NOT a safe suggestion.

    If you have any doubts, or are not sure, please take my post to your local electrician and get him to confirm what you need.

  3. #13
    Mike Wilde's Avatar
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    Yes, most AC powered flash units use voltage doubler or trippler circuits to charge the capacitor bank to a higher than'normal' voltage than what one gets when you 'just' rectify standard AC to DC. So in a nut shell they are designed for the voltage they are sold to be used at.

    Mr. Rusty's words are true, but I have some concerns that consumer grade portable voltage convertors may be stressed by the high inrush currents that the flash electronics suck in right after the flash has be triggered.
    my real name, imagine that.

  4. #14
    Steve Smith's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mr rusty View Post
    Please totally ignore Steve's advice to try running them in series. (Sorry Steve) this is NOT a safe suggestion.
    It wasn't advice, it was what I might try and I did say don't do it!


    Steve.
    "People who say things won't work are a dime a dozen. People who figure out how to make things work are worth a fortune" - Dave Rat.

  5. #15
    mr rusty's Avatar
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    Hi Mike/Holly

    Mr. Rusty's words are true, but I have some concerns that consumer grade portable voltage convertors may be stressed by the high inrush currents that the flash electronics suck in right after the flash has be triggered.
    This is a perfectly reasonable concern, however I think the specification of the unit allows for it, so I would be quite happy with my recommendations.

    Holly - Consult a local electrician for confirmation, but apart from the cost :-( once you have the correct step-down everything will work fine.

    Mike - The tech data (for the CE 230V unit) shows it is fused/rated at 6.3A for 1500VA (6.3 x 230 = 1449). For some reason they don't quote the fuse rating for the 120V unit, but assuming the overall power consumption is similar (I think it might be a little lower as the bulb rating is slightly lower), the 1500W rating is actually the maximum connection load including any surge - if it wasn't the fuse would be underated! I expect that the actual draw is quite a bit below the specified rating. For this reason I would be quite happy with the 1500W step-down I provided a link for as it is rated continuous 1000W and up to 1 hour continuous at 1500W. I expect it has a current limiter/fuse set a bit beyond that.

  6. #16
    mr rusty's Avatar
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    It wasn't advice, it was what I might try and I did say don't do it!
    Ha! It's what I might try too before I thought better of it!! I just wanted to make sure no-one who might be helping might see it and not thinking it through, try to do it.

    Experimental is what I try *after* something has broken, as I work on the basis that I can't make a dead unit any worse!

  7. #17
    Steve Smith's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mr rusty View Post
    I can't make a dead unit any worse!
    I can!


    Steve.
    "People who say things won't work are a dime a dozen. People who figure out how to make things work are worth a fortune" - Dave Rat.

  8. #18
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    Thankyou so much Mr Rusty and everyone for your very helpful replies! I am so glad I asked the APUG oracle because before then, I was probably
    about 24 hours away from trying to connect the units with a 240V IEC cord and that would have been bloody disastrous! So now I will not be touching
    any of the cords until I take my good advice to a local sparky, just to double check absolutely everything before I go for the stepdown transformer option.

    I may end up having to get two of the 1500W transformers so that I can move around the shooting area with more flexibility. I'm sure that
    one day I'll buy more lights as well, possibly with higher wattage again, so if it's okay to use any *higher* wattage transformer on a lower
    wattage light, I can maybe think about getting the right combo to allow for future added units to my kit. AND I would then be set up for
    shooting in the US any old time I felt like it, should I ever be working there! Which I hope I will. The price of buying extra stuff to make
    these lights work is just going to be a necessary evil, but hey, live and learn

  9. #19
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    Elinchrom makes 2 versions of the 600RX (see page 12 of the manual). One is for 230v (215-240) and the other is for 120v (110-120). As others have said, often such units are identical, with an internal switch or jumper wire that can be used to change the voltage. You should contact Elichrom and ask about this.

    On their Website, they ask that you contact their local distributor. In Australia, that would be:

    Kayell Australia Pty Limited
    108 Johnston Street
    3066 Collingwood VIC

    Phone: 03 8412 2800
    Fax: 03 8412 2899

    They have an e-mail address and a Website but APUG won't let me post the links because I have not yet posted enough messages. Check Google for Kayell.

    If the units can not be adjusted for 240v, then you will need stepdown transformers. In any case you will need an adaptor for the wall plug.

  10. #20

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    Hello Holly;
    The step down transformers rated @ 1500watts would be the way to go, or even cheaper would be one 3000watt unit. Even if the units could be changed over, by the time you buy new modeling lamps, new cords, and a service charge the transformer(s) will be the cheapest option. Just my 2cents, Steven.

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