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  1. #11
    Poisson Du Jour's Avatar
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    If using a flashmeter (which is always an incident reading type) ie. Sekonic L758D, the ambient/flash balance will be worked out for you based on your selected aperture together with the piddly 1/30 sync of the Pentax 67 / 6x7. A hand-held meter will also provide variation in the balance of ambient/flash in percentage. Sekonic, Minolta AutoMeters, Polaris... there are others, all have their strengths and vices and all can be readily had for good savings on the second-hand market. I bought my L758 for $1080, but it can be obtained now for $400 or so.

    The use of a flash meter is strongly preferable for analysis of ambient/flash to getting bogged down in several levels of figures. It's a simple and stress-free way, but if you're the scientific type, by all means let rip with LVs, EVs, ISOs and whatnot, but your prime consideration should be just to get a picture and inspect the results, not argue about variables. If the first pic doesn't work out, then keep trying. Experience is a great teacher.

    BTW, I would strongly angle for a leaf shutter lens for the 67 (there are two available, but only one still made by Pentax) to enable higher sync speeds and thus greatly more flexibility, but it will depend on what you are photographing and in what conditions.
    Last edited by Poisson Du Jour; 09-02-2012 at 09:50 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    .::Gary Rowan Higgins

    A comfort zone is a wonderful place. But nothing ever grows there.
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  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by polyglot View Post
    r.

    A common configuration is sun for "normal" exposure and flash at -1 for fill. Say you're shooting ISO100, a likely combination would be f/11 1/200s exposure (sunny-16 light) and the flash with enough power to illuminate f/8, i.e. one stop less than what your aperture is actually set to. If you wanted the flash and sun to be equal, obviously you'd set the flash power to f/11 but it's going to look bright & flat and if you're shooting chromes then you'll actually be a stop overexposed on any part of the scene that is lit by both sun and flash. If you want more DOF (smaller aperture) with the same lighting balance, you need both a longer exposure and more flash power.

    Aperture affects both flash and ambient, shutter affects only ambient. Flash/subject distance also affects flash power via the inverse square law, so a little bit of moving stuff around can go a long way.
    This is quick and easy. No fiddling around and it works the majority of the time. If you try it you may not bother with the other methods. But if you're trying to work in a set piece situation you WILL need to work a more accurate method.
    I believe the Pentax 67 has a sync speed of 1/30 of a second so any comment regarding ignoring shutter speed should be taken with a grain(or two) of salt. Using a higher shutter speed will fire the flash before the shutter opens.
    Unless you're using one of their leaf shutter lenses.
    Heavily sedated for your protection.

  3. #13
    markbarendt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Koehrer View Post
    This is quick and easy. No fiddling around and it works the majority of the time. If you try it you may not bother with the other methods. But if you're trying to work in a set piece situation you WILL need to work a more accurate method.
    I believe the Pentax 67 has a sync speed of 1/30 of a second so any comment regarding ignoring shutter speed should be taken with a grain(or two) of salt. Using a higher shutter speed will fire the flash before the shutter opens.
    Unless you're using one of their leaf shutter lenses.
    The 1/30 sync speed is not great, but not too big a challenge in the situation the OP described with an ambient of EV7.

    As described that situation indicates an EI of 3200, if I did the math right.

    What we don't know is how fancy the OPs flash unit is.

    If it has an automatic mode like Nikon's "A" mode, the flash may be able to adjust its exposure to match the EI and aperture with no extra work.

    If its a studio strobe it can be adjusted to exactly what is needed and tested with the flash meter.

    If its an old flash unit, moving it closer or farther from the subject may be the only choice.
    Mark Barendt, Ignacio, CO

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

  4. #14
    Steve Smith's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by markbarendt View Post
    The 1/30 sync speed is not great, but not too big a challenge in the situation the OP described with an ambient of EV7.

    As described that situation indicates an EI of 3200, if I did the math right.
    At EI 3200, EV7 is 1/30 at f2


    Steve.

  5. #15
    Steve Smith's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chan Tran View Post
    When you said the flash meter display EV9 there is some problem with that. I don't know if other meters like the Sekonic would take into account of the shutter speed when it displays the EV number or not. I use only Minolta meter and with the flashmeter III when set to EV display mode it display the EV number from f/1.0. So if it displays EV9 it means f/22 regardless of the shutter speed.
    Then it's using the wrong units as EV (Exposure Value) has to take account of shutter speed and aperture. In fact that's all it is, the level of exposure. It does not take into account the amount of light.

    However, LV (Light Value) is a measure of the light only.

    At ISO 100 the figures are the same.

    In the light meter's defence, it probably does state that all EV readings are for ISO 100 in the instructions but technically, using EV to represent light levels is not correct.

    It's like measuring the length of a brick wall in kilogrammes. Only valid if you know the cross sectional area and the density!


    Steve.

  6. #16
    RalphLambrecht's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rippo View Post
    Yuse aperture to control the flash exposure, and shutter speed to control the ambient portion.
    tha's what i do, but watch to do the later at he same apertureas the former.
    Regards

    Ralph W. Lambrecht
    www.darkroomagic.comrorrlambrec@ymail.com[/URL]
    www.waybeyondmonochrome.com

  7. #17
    markbarendt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Smith View Post
    At EI 3200, EV7 is 1/30 at f2


    Steve.
    Thanks Steve, I rushed it.
    Mark Barendt, Ignacio, CO

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

  8. #18
    hoffy's Avatar
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    I have to admit that this is an interesting conversation and something that I have been considering. I want to possibly under expose the ambient in the examples that I have been considering.

    Would a Thyristor type flash work OK for the fill light? Or would the abundance of ambient light fool the sensor?

    Cheers

  9. #19
    Steve Smith's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hoffy View Post
    Would a Thyristor type flash work OK for the fill light? Or would the abundance of ambient light fool the sensor?
    Works fine and makes it easier as you don't have to worry about the distance having an effect. Try a Vivitar 285.


    Steve.

  10. #20
    markbarendt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hoffy View Post
    I have to admit that this is an interesting conversation and something that I have been considering. I want to possibly under expose the ambient in the examples that I have been considering.

    Would a Thyristor type flash work OK for the fill light? Or would the abundance of ambient light fool the sensor?

    Cheers
    Thyristor type flash units (assuming a modern unit with a sensor) work fine but their sensors face the same challenges any reflective meter faces.

    That can be mitigated with "barn doors" or some other form of shading device used to exclude the background from the sensors view. That's not always needed or beneficial. Many, if not most times, simply pointing the front of the unit at the subject is enough.

    The other wild card is the camera in play. Reasonably modern TTL metered cameras (like a Nikon N90s or F4) with fairly modern lights (say an SB50 which lacks its own sensor) that can talk to the camera and get instructions from the camera on how to fill as the shutter button is pushed.
    Mark Barendt, Ignacio, CO

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

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