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  1. #11
    Ed Sukach's Avatar
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    AgfaPan 100 - APX. Why? I *like it*. Reasons? - Superstition, aesthetic bias ... so...?

    Unless you have some sort of strange film with weird reciprocity failure characteristics on the "short" exposure side .. the same factors that govern the selection of any film apply. Easier question: Does anyone know of a film that should *NOT* be used with studio flash equipment...?!
    Carpe erratum!!

    Ed Sukach, FFP.

  2. #12
    gr82bart's Avatar
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    I like Agfa Scala myself and use it all the time in studio. But I'm partial to transparencies to begin with.

    Regards, Art.
    Visit my website at www.ArtLiem.com
    or my online portfolios at APUG and ModelMayhem

  3. #13

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    My vote is Delta 100 @ ISO 100. Developed in Rodinal for 13:30 @ 20C.

    See this thread for more info

    See attached photo for a shot from my studio with two strobes.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 961walther.jpg  

  4. #14
    tbm
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    I, too, absolutely love using Delta 100 at ISO 100 for portraits. I develop it in Microdol-X 1+3 for 17 minutes at 75 degrees and the results are breathtaking!

  5. #15
    bobfowler's Avatar
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    35mm? Portraits? Hmmm... Ilford Pan F+ comes to mind. If more speed is needed, FP4+ would be perfect in my book.
    Bob Fowler
    fowler@verizon.net
    Some people are like Slinkies. They're really good for nothing, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs.

  6. #16

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    For what it's worth...one of my favorite natural light combos is FP4+ in HC110b, but I have a hard time making that same combination work when using flash (direct or diffused) indoors. For controlled flash or strobe work I go with Delta 100 or XP2.

  7. #17

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    Thanks for all the input! I intend to do portraits and figure studies...
    [FONT=Comic Sans MS]When in trouble or in doubt, run in circles, scream and shout![/FONT]

  8. #18
    djklmnop's Avatar
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    I use Pan F+ and Afra APX 100 souped in Microdol-X or Perceptol 1:3.. Excellent tonality and grain. Check out my gallery.
    Money is not the problem. The problem is, I don't have any.

  9. #19
    SchwinnParamount's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeGates
    Hi all--

    I am *just* now setting up studio space (actually, two days ago), and am trying to learn my way around lighting. My partner has a digital camera, and this has been useful for getting some instant feedback on how shadows fall, etc., but I am dying to get in and start shooting with *my* camera, and I'm a die-hard analog user.

    In the past (and it has been a long time--I am only now getting back into my photography), I pretty much used Tri-X for everything. What is a recommended film for use in a studio situation? How fast or slow a film do I need for best results and minimum grain? My camera, until I can afford an MF one, is my trusty ol' 35mm Nikon F2.

    Thanks!

    Mike in Alaska
    Mike, I've used Tri-X for many years and still do. It is a lovely film especially when developed in XTOL. That developer will give you a negative with slightly reduced grain and full speed. In other words, I expose the Tri-X at its rated 400 speed. Tri-X is quite forgiving of exposure errors... well, maybe a stop under or over.

    Another film which has given me good results with strobe is AGFA APX 400. This German film is slightly grainer but has beautiful tones. look at the wrestling picture in my vast (three picture :-) ) portfolio. It is strobe lit APX 400

  10. #20
    Ara Ghajanian's Avatar
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    I just shot a few portraits with Tri X and my Hasselblad using strobes and a soft box. I wasn't crazy about the results, too low contrast. The thing is I had a lab process the film and make the prints. If you use a lab, I think you should run a test of the same shot using a few different kinds of film to see what works best. If you're developing and printing yourself, then it's a whole different story. Generally, I've had really good luck with TMAX100 or 400 with lab processing.

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