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  1. #11
    Mainecoonmaniac's Avatar
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    "Photography, like surfing, is an infinite process, a constantly evolving exploration of life."
    Aaron Chang

  2. #12
    k.hendrik's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mainecoonmaniac View Post
    Thanks, lot of news in here!

  3. #13
    Rudeofus's Avatar
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    The strobist blog is very informative and highly recommended reading for many reasons, but please note that it won't translate directly into what you will likely do with your RZ67 and ISO100 film. If you want decent depth of field, you need F/11 or F/16 on your RZ67, and small strobes will give you F/4 and F/5.6 whenever you fire them indirectly or through an umbrella. I stubbornly resisted studio flashes for a few years but finally gave up last winter and got a D-Lite 4, and the difference in the pics is like night and day.
    Trying to be the best of whatever I am, even if what I am is no good.

  4. #14

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    I bought a set of old Novatrons off ebay for dirt cheap. The set-up came with a power block, strobes, umbrellas, stands and a nice case. All I had to buy extra was a flash meter. There is plenty of used stuff (barn doors, snoots, etc.) for them on ebay and the company is still in business in Texas if you want new.

    If you are interested check out Ken Rockwell's site for plenty of info on Novatrons. He uses them for his website photos of cameras and lenses.

  5. #15
    polyglot's Avatar
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    While it's certainly true that hot shoe flashes are underpowered for 6x7, I can get f/16 at 1m from the mini softbox. So it's quite usable in a pinch, especially at ISO400. The fact that you can sync the flash all the way up to 1/400 really helps when you're out with strong ambient.

    For example, at 2.5m, balanced light , at 1.5m, over powering the sun.

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by polyglot View Post
    While it's certainly true that hot shoe flashes are underpowered for 6x7, I can get f/16 at 1m from the mini softbox. So it's quite usable in a pinch, especially at ISO400. The fact that you can sync the flash all the way up to 1/400 really helps when you're out with strong ambient.

    For example, at 2.5m, balanced light , at 1.5m, over powering the sun.
    You were able to blend flash and ambient light nicely, what was your method to set flash power to match the ambient?

  7. #17
    polyglot's Avatar
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    I used a flash meter.

  8. #18
    Gadfly_71's Avatar
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    You might look into a used set of Speedotron Brownlines as well. They can be had used for little money and they're still supported (new flash tubes are available as well modifiers) and manufactured. The only drawback is that they don't offer a lot of adjustment (full, half, and quarter).

  9. #19
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    Hey guys, before you throw out different lighting systems, perhaps we should find out what kind of budget the OP is looking for?

    There's a huge difference between the cheepy Speedos (Speedotron) and the professional Broncolor gear, and the top of the line Profoto gear. Both in functionality, light quality, and of course PRICE.

    So, what's your budget? Personally I'm stubborn and only go for the best stuff if possible (So I use Profoto only) but Broncolor are really nice if you can fit it in your budget.

    I really don't like monolights, they aren't upgradeable unlike other systems with a pack so when you upgrade your gear you can still use the old heads with the new gear.

    So OP what's your budget?

  10. #20
    Mainecoonmaniac's Avatar
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    I want and recommend this flash unit.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=S7FmznnVTvQ
    "Photography, like surfing, is an infinite process, a constantly evolving exploration of life."
    Aaron Chang

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