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  1. #11
    analoguey's Avatar
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    Curious, Would the safe synch be something to use for, say a Vivitar being triggered with a Yongnuo RF 602 trigger? (or something similar?) Or is it only for hotshoe-to-old flash?

  2. #12
    John_Nikon_F's Avatar
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    Ideally, I'd look for the Canon EX series flash unit that also has a non-TTL flash sensor on it. Which means that you may want to hunt down a 580EX or 580EX Mark II flash. Use that with a hot shoe adapter on whatever old camera you have. That way, you don't have to tape the bottom of the flash foot to prevent shortcircuiting to the cold shoe on a Spottie or whatever other old camera you're using.

    Use your 430EX as a slave unit or as a compact unit for when you're only taking the Canon bodies with you. Or, as trade fodder for the 580.

    -J
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  3. #13
    Bill Burk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by analoguey View Post
    Curious, Would the safe synch be something to use for, say a Vivitar being triggered with a Yongnuo RF 602 trigger? (or something similar?) Or is it only for hotshoe-to-old flash?
    I use a Wein Safe Sync with Vivitar 283. It has both hotshoe and PC cord socket.

    Actually, then, I aim the Vivitar 283 at a generic slave which is connected to my much older Flashmaster AA. By improvising this optical connection, I make things much safer at the camera than they were with just the Safe Sync alone...

  4. #14
    analoguey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Burk View Post
    I use a Wein Safe Sync with Vivitar 283. It has both hotshoe and PC cord socket.

    Actually, then, I aim the Vivitar 283 at a generic slave which is connected to my much older Flashmaster AA. By improvising this optical connection, I make things much safer at the camera than they were with just the Safe Sync alone...

    So are using the Vivitar as master or slave? I am confused by what you mean when you say
    aim the Vivitar 283 at a generic slave

  5. #15
    Steve Smith's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Born2Late View Post
    You can also build a trigger voltage reducing for a few dollars. It reduces the trigger voltage seen by the camera to 5V so old flashes can be used on newer cameras. The biggest problem that I ran into was that was no room inside my flash for the components.
    If anyone wants to try it, this is about as simple as it can get. Either build it into the flash or in a small box.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Steve.
    "People who say things won't work are a dime a dozen. People who figure out how to make things work are worth a fortune" - Dave Rat.

  6. #16
    Bill Burk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by analoguey View Post
    So are using the Vivitar as master or slave? I am confused by what you mean when you say
    The Flashmaster AA is the old school studio light powerpack that provides the lighting for the pictures.

    Everything else is just linkage.

    The camera is electrically isolated from the electrically hot Flashmaster because the linkage is optical:

    Camera --- Wein Safe-Sync --- 40v Vivitar { optical } Slave sensor --- 120v Flashmaster

    I did this setup because the Safe-Sync wasn't doing a good job handling the Flashmaster directly.

  7. #17

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    Just use the older flashes with newer cameras as optical slaves triggered by the built-in onboard flash.

  8. #18
    analoguey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Burk View Post
    The Flashmaster AA is the old school studio light powerpack that provides the lighting for the pictures.

    Everything else is just linkage.

    The camera is electrically isolated from the electrically hot Flashmaster because the linkage is optical:

    Camera --- Wein Safe-Sync --- 40v Vivitar { optical } Slave sensor --- 120v Flashmaster

    I did this setup because the Safe-Sync wasn't doing a good job handling the Flashmaster directly.
    Ah I see! that sounds like a neat setup!
    This would be a studio-only setup, right?

    Also, Nikon lists its cameras as okay till about 250v, so I am presuming I wouldnt need a safe-sync then?

  9. #19
    RalphLambrecht's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr Croubie View Post
    Hi all,
    Sorry if this as been discussed before, I'm sure it would have been but I can't find it when searching.

    Anyway, I'm just getting into buying myself a lighting kit, and I'm exploring all the various options.
    So far all I've got is a 430EX, and have only ever used it on (and sometimes off) my 7D. If I stick with the digital and/or my EOS 3, then I can just buy a bucketload of Canon or compatible Speedlites, and be done with it.

    But obviously I'm thinking about not just sticking with digital, or I wouldn't be here asking. I'd very much like to try using my other film cameras with flash, so i'd need a way to sync them all together. Whatever the lighting kit ends up being (be it flash, monolight, whatever), I'll be using the PC-Sync socket out of the camera into whatever transmitter to the lights.

    Now, I've always read things like "connecting older cameras to newer flashes can blow them up", and the occasional "new cameras with old flashes too". (Although whatever lighting setup I get will be less than 5 years old, so it's old-camera-new-flash that I'm worried about)
    - Is there any truth to either of these?
    - Is it hotshoe only? (this I can understand, with the old-school exploding single-use bulbs)
    - PC-Cord only?
    - Is there a definitive date to define 'old' and 'new'?
    - Is there anything that can be done to mitigate any incompatibilities? (Like a signal isolator? I'm an Electronic Engineer by day so have no problems building anything needed)

    FYI, I could be using any of the following:
    'Old' designs:
    Asahi Pentax Spotmatic
    Pentacon Six
    Kiev 60
    Kiev 88cm

    'New' designs:
    EOS 3
    Mamiya 645AF
    CV Bessa

    Does anyone have any specific experience with any of these cameras that do/don't work with 'new' flash equipment? For 35mm I don't mind sticking to the EOS3, but in MF I'd prefer to use the 88cm for the square-format and WLF (or P6/K60), the Mamiya 645AF doesn't excite me much even though it's newer.
    (ps, no need to point out the slow sync-speeds of MF, I'm already aware and I'll work around it)
    new flsh equipment on older cameras Xsynch is unlikely to be a problem, but older flashes may have too high of a trigger voltage to be safe for new cameras. you can measure the trigger voltage( google for instructions).the safe option is to use wireless triggers.they work welland do not cost much.
    Regards

    Ralph W. Lambrecht
    www.darkroomagic.comrorrlambrec@ymail.com[/URL]
    www.waybeyondmonochrome.com

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