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  1. #1

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    Yongnuo YN-600 LED or Aputure AL-528?

    Just started collecting my Studio Lignting for "Headshots" and portraits. As I'm in Pentax 67 system I can't see any other solution for the 1/30s flash synchro speed. So I decided to go with LED's. Found some cheep panes: Yongnuo YN-600 LED and Aputure AL-528 series. Need some info with to go with. I'm thinking to get 3 of them for headshot's and portrat's in studio and outdoor.

    Help needed what you think about this lamps. I have loto of flash power in studio but I don't know in with way to go with still light lamps.
    Best Regards,
    www.elfpa.org - Europe LF Photographers Association

  2. #2

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    Why not strobe?

    Someone with more experience will probably chime in on this but while I feel 1/30s is slow for a flash sync it should not be an issue if you use strobes. The speed of the shutter is actually controlled by the speed of the flash not the shutter opening unless you have a lot of other light coming in. The strobe will stop the motion and if you shoot on a tripod everything will be fine.

    That said I'm still debating on strobe vs led as well and don't mean to hijack your thread if you're already set on the hot light system>

    Edit: I just looked at the lights you're talking about and the price does seem quite attractive over strobe.

  3. #3

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    I thought about strobe but want to go with LED's right now. My strobes are in boxes for now. Just wondering, of this two with one is better for headshot's aver all. I would use them for now also with large format camera without synchro so LED's is the way for me I think.
    Best Regards,
    www.elfpa.org - Europe LF Photographers Association

  4. #4
    mweintraub's Avatar
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    How much power can you get from these systems?

    Man, I love my 400/600 w/s strobes. I bought them used and cheap. Easy to set up and the Bowens speedring fit is nice.

  5. #5
    Dan Quan's Avatar
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    To me it seems hard to imagine those LED's would offer enough output and flexibility for film.
    DanQuan.com
    stand in the place where you are

  6. #6

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    I don't think LED will give you enough power for faster shutter speeds. Even with something like 1k Watt HMI (roughly 80,000 lumens) you might struggle shoot at different aperture than wide open. The YN-600 makes 4,680LM, that's 20 times less than the above HMI. Roughly 4.5 stops.

    I would go with flash which has short duration to freeze the action. The slow sync speed shouldn't be a problem in a studio, but it would cause problems outdoors on sunny day.

  7. #7

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    I will try with my strobes and also will look for some nice LED's for portrait projects. I have 2x600ws and 2x1800ws studio flashes so no problem with power here. But would like to go above 1/30s.
    Best Regards,
    www.elfpa.org - Europe LF Photographers Association

  8. #8

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    You could get a 90mm or 165mm leaf shutter lens for your 67. The 165 is the obvious choice for headshots and it syncs to 1/500, it sells for around $200-300.

  9. #9
    Dan Quan's Avatar
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    I'm finding I can get by with surprisingly less light than I thought. Most of the images I'm considering are not in full sunlight but in shadow or indoors, and full sunlight can be worked with white diffusion fabric and reflectors. White diffusion material can be had pretty cheap at discount stores and fabric shops. I purchased some of my favorite material at Walmart for $1.00 a yard on clearance. Even just window light with or without a reflector can produce beautiful results. Continuos light is easy to model and work with and if you'd like to get something to start with try a Focusable Fresnel because it's much easier to soften a light than to harden one. With a fresnel you could point it at a ceiling corner or wall or through some white sheer fabric to soften it. Or point it through a window and use a reflector or use it straight on if you'd like. Tungsten can work well for B&W if you like the skin tones it produces, a daylight balanced light is good for color, and the greater the output of either will offer more options for using filters.

    V cards, V shaped reflectors are really cheap and easy to make and are surprisingly useful. Some white diffusion material and a 1000 watt light and a few 500watt or 250 watt shop lights, a silver reflector, some cinefoil / blackwrap, tape and a-clips and you could have a lot of fun, especially on B&W. Thats basically what I'm doing and getting decent results, but my sharpest focusable light is only a 250 watt Lowel Pro light I picked up for $80.00 USD on ebay.

    edit to add: And I always use a tripod.
    Last edited by Dan Quan; 12-11-2013 at 12:26 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    DanQuan.com
    stand in the place where you are

  10. #10

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    I'm using 200mm and 150mm. I don't want to get leaf shutter version's right now. I will look for some nice lights maby some other version than asked for. I will see.
    Best Regards,
    www.elfpa.org - Europe LF Photographers Association



 

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