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  1. #31
    Mainecoonmaniac's Avatar
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    Possibly...

    Quote Originally Posted by mweintraub View Post
    I thought the shorter duration were at higher powers.
    I know with my Broncolor Impacts, they had a shorter duration at lower power. But take a look what I found.

    http://www.scantips.com/lights/flashbasics2.html
    "Photography, like surfing, is an infinite process, a constantly evolving exploration of life."
    Aaron Chang

  2. #32
    rjbuzzclick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mweintraub View Post
    added: I've experienced issues where my strobes were not illuminating the frame when I shot above 1/200 and no, it's not my camera's sync speed because I used it below the 1/250s on the digital and the 1/400 of the RZ67
    Were you using optical triggers for your remote strobes? In my experience, optical triggers (at least the peanut slaves I was using) have quite a bit of delay on them. I was doing a shoot with a digital camera a while back with a sync speed of 1/180, but at that speed I was only getting the strobe that was directly cabled to the camera. The optically triggered strobes fired, but after the shutter had closed. Slowing down the shutter speed to 1/125 solved the problem for me.
    Reid

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/rjbuzzclick/

    "If I had a nickel for every time I had to replace a camera battery, I'd be able to get the #@%&$ battery cover off!" -Me

  3. #33
    mweintraub's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mainecoonmaniac View Post
    I know with my Broncolor Impacts, they had a shorter duration at lower power. But take a look what I found.

    http://www.scantips.com/lights/flashbasics2.html
    Yeah, I'm probably wrong. I'll do some tests myself to get my head around it.


    Quote Originally Posted by rjbuzzclick View Post
    Were you using optical triggers for your remote strobes? In my experience, optical triggers (at least the peanut slaves I was using) have quite a bit of delay on them. I was doing a shoot with a digital camera a while back with a sync speed of 1/180, but at that speed I was only getting the strobe that was directly cabled to the camera. The optically triggered strobes fired, but after the shutter had closed. Slowing down the shutter speed to 1/125 solved the problem for me.
    It was either wired or RF wireless. Unless the receiver cable didn't make contact correctly, it shouldn't have been optical. More testing will be done as I do want to shot at higher speeds with the leaf lenses.

  4. #34
    David Allen's Avatar
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    Quite simply, if you use a camera with in the lens shutter you can do what you want, also with any camera that allows sync speeds that you can choose. Put simply, set your camera to 1/500 at f16 and use a flash that will illuminate the scene with sufficient light at f16. Now you control the lighting of every scene.

    Best,

    David.
    wwwdsallen.de

  5. #35
    markbarendt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ToddB View Post
    OK guys..

    I was wondering if it's possible to shoot a picture using film camera on bright sunny day and be able to have a minmal depth of field and use a fill flash? Say F2.8.. Would you need high ISO or low ISO film? I drew a blank on this.

    Todd
    Sure.

    Shutter sync time is the big issue.

    FP High-Speed sync with late model Nikon cameras matched with the right speed lights are made for this, though it's not automatic.

    As slow a film as you can get will help too. With color negs that may be 160, B&W maybe 125, 100, or 50.

    The other thing that can help a bunch is to choose a longer lens.
    Mark Barendt, Beaverton, OR

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

  6. #36
    Jaf-Photo's Avatar
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    There's a lot of talk about flash here.

    But why not use a reflector instead, as I suggested?

    It's easy to set up and easy to tune your exposure with (just normal metering and exposure adjustment).

    And the light looks more natural on the subject too (because it is).

  7. #37
    markbarendt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaf-Photo View Post
    There's a lot of talk about flash here.

    But why not use a reflector instead, as I suggested?

    It's easy to set up and easy to tune your exposure with (just normal metering and exposure adjustment).

    And the light looks more natural on the subject too (because it is).
    Because it takes a stand or second person to do well.

    It does work well though if you have the support.
    Mark Barendt, Beaverton, OR

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

  8. #38
    cliveh's Avatar
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    If you want minimal depth of field, use a telephoto lens.

    “The contemplation of things as they are, without error or confusion, without substitution or imposture, is in itself a nobler thing than a whole harvest of invention”

    Francis Bacon

  9. #39

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    At ISO 32 in bright sunlight, the sunny f16 rule tells us that f 2.8 needs a 1/1000 second exposure. An ISO 125 film and a two stop ND filter at f 2.8 is still 1/1000 second.

    A Nikon F5 and a SB-26 will do this in FP mode.
    An Olympus OM-4T or OM-3Ti with an F-280 flash will do this.
    Nikorrmat will do this with FP flash bulbs.
    An Olympus OM-1 will do this with FP flash bulbs.
    Dave

    "She's always out making pictures, She's always out making scenes.
    She's always out the window, When it comes to making Dreams.

    It's all mixed up, It's all mixed up, It's all mixed up."

    From It's All Mixed Up by The Cars

  10. #40
    Jaf-Photo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by markbarendt View Post
    Because it takes a stand or second person to do well.

    It does work well though if you have the support.
    The OP suggested that he was shooting portraits, so there should be people around to hold the reflector. If not, stands are cheap.

    One more benefefit of the reflector is that it sculpts rather than flattens like a flash does - and you can see the lightingin the viewfinder, rather than wait until the film is developed.

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