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  1. #51
    mweintraub's Avatar
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    Here is the example as mentioned above.

    Top one is 1/500s
    Sec one is 1/60s
    Third one is 1/60s (cut off)

    Digital capture of film on light table. I set the white and black points on the 2nd image.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSC_6971.jpg  

  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by mweintraub View Post
    Here is the example as mentioned above.

    Top one is 1/500s
    Sec one is 1/60s
    Third one is 1/60s (cut off)

    Digital capture of film on light table. I set the white and black points on the 2nd image.
    Nice dog.

    Soft box high and camera right?

    So first look at the shadow between the dog and the corner, that would be a very tough spot for the flash to fill given your setup (running the soft box horizontal instead of vertical would fill that spot better and allow the light to go up closer to the ceiling). Second look at how the soft box reflection on the door remains constant relative to the rest of the door. Both get (roughly) equally brighter.

    These types of indicators are normal for fill flash because you aren't relying on the flash as the main light, ambient has to help get the whole exposure up to normal.

    That isn't a flaw, that's the point of fill flash. Allowing ambient light to carry a good share of the load can make for a more natural looking shot. The fill is just there to help.
    Mark Barendt, Ignacio, CO

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

  3. #53
    omaha's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mweintraub View Post
    It was kinda dark in the room so I'm guessing ambient had no affect.
    This is where I suspect you are mistaken.

    The scans you posted are exactly what I would expect based on your description of the lighting and the respective shutter speeds.
    I shoot digital when I have to (most of those shots end up here) and film (occasionally one of those shots ends up here) when I want to.

  4. #54
    mweintraub's Avatar
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    When it comes around the same time of day when I took that shot, I'll meter the scene again without the flash. But until then, here is a setup shot I took with the digital while firing the flash at the exact same flash power.

    D700
    50mm 1.8G
    ISO 200
    1/60s f/6.3 (what the light meter read)

    As you can the softbox has a lot of spill, so the entire corner is lit. The camera and tripod are in the dark. The camera and tripod are actually closer to the ambient light than the door, so you can see there is no ambient light that made it's way into the shot.

    I've attached a 2nd photo that's 100% ambient.
    ISO 3200
    1/60s F/1.8
    It's pretty dark in here (as far as photography is concerned).
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSC_6959.jpg   DSC_6956.jpg  

  5. #55

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    Quote Originally Posted by omaha View Post
    This is where I suspect you are mistaken.

    The scans you posted are exactly what I would expect based on your description of the lighting and the respective shutter speeds.
    Me too.
    The ambient light is what is affecting the background. Shorter exposure=darker background, longer=brighter. You're not using
    fill in these examples for the primary subject. If you want to fill the corners, your light has to be repositioned.

    In sunlight you would need fill to lighten or minimize shadows. Assume a back/sidelit subject and the fill goes on the shadowed side.
    Heavily sedated for your protection.

  6. #56
    mweintraub's Avatar
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    I disagree. But of course I can be wrong.

    So, at 7pm, I turned on the light like it was on that night and took a meter reading. @ 1/60s, I got "E.u" (see attached photo)

    It would require a 6s shutter @ f/6.3 to get proper exposure with this ambient light.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails image.jpeg  

  7. #57
    omaha's Avatar
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    Shoot a series of frames in that light (same f/stop as before, varying the shutter) with the RZ and see what you get.

    For a proper experiment, start with a perfectly (or as nearly so as is practical...a bedroom with the door closed and the lights off in the hall and the curtains drawn at night will do) dark room.

    Set up something for a subject, set up your strobe and set it so it meters f/8 at the subject. Set your RZ to f/8.

    Take a series of five shots, varying the shutter from 1/4 through 1/250.

    Now, add a bright table lamp to the room. Don't change anything else, and repeat the same five shots.

    Unless something is gitchy about your strobe (ie, inconsistent power output), the first five should be identical, and the second five should be progressively less exposed.
    I shoot digital when I have to (most of those shots end up here) and film (occasionally one of those shots ends up here) when I want to.

  8. #58
    mweintraub's Avatar
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    Any problems with shooting this digitally? D700's 1/250s or D70's 1/500s should work. I have a long sync cable to test this too. Will also try with a speed light in the same soft box.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  9. #59
    omaha's Avatar
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    That will work. Just make sure you are in manual mode and keep the shutter speed under 1/200.
    I shoot digital when I have to (most of those shots end up here) and film (occasionally one of those shots ends up here) when I want to.

  10. #60
    mweintraub's Avatar
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    Testing done. Looks like the Fotodiox strobes don't like it when the shutter is too high. Well, you know what I mean. When I replaced it with an SB-600, I could sync higher.

    I'll post samples later that I took with the room lights on and off.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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