Metz 60-38 Dry-fit - why it shouldn't be charged in Mecablitz 202?
I can't understand why a lead battery 60-38 can't be charged in some models of Mecablitz - it says so on the label... maybe it requires too high of a current? Maybe someone can help me with it? I am still puzzled about what kind of battery I should use with Mecablitz 202, Metz support holds silence
I've never used Metz big flashes, so I don't know also what means the switch on the battery compartment - maybe someone can tell me? The 202 seems to have two programs, but I can't understand yet how should I figure out the aperture
Sorry for stupid questions, and all the very best - Zhenya
FWIW but here's my take on them. The 60 is a dryfit as you indicated and requires a fairly narrow allowed charging rate into order not to shorten its life. The 202 doesn't have the necessary circuitry to limit the flow, as it was made when the funky looking wet cells were used (in addition to the nicad cells) so charge rates were different. You can charge the dryfit (if you keep track of the time and not just leave it in there to trickle charge) in the 202 but you risk overcharging it rather quickly and shorten the battery life. Its been a few years sinced I've owned a 202, so my memory may not be perfect but then I maybe not be the best person to reference as I used to do things to kludge things together to drive the Metz engineers crazy
Aha, that's what I thought - thanks, Canuck! I will buy a Ni-cad cell that should fit, then, and leave the idea with the lead cells. They are also heavy as hell, and I've got already enough of metal and glass in my camera bag to break my neck
Originally Posted by Canuck
I've got still no idea how to operate the unit - there are two programs, apparently? I choose one, and what is the working aperture with it? Also, there is a switch on a battery pack, with red&white positions - what is it for? How can I estimate the maximum distance for each program? Sorry for these questions, but the manual for 202 should be a real rarity
Regards from Moscow,
Programs? I don't remember that unit but at most it's going to be auto and manual. Describe the dial and I bet somebody can figure it out.
If it's auto you set the film speed on the flash. Then you adjust the f/stop dial on the flash to one that isn't too small. If the flash provides auto then the dial will show a number in meters or feet. You can be closer then that number but not further. If you're further away you need to open up the aperture or move closer. In auto mode the flash sensor reads the light reflected back to it. You need to remember that. A white wall will reflect more light a black one less. You'll have to adjust.
In manual mode you just divide. The flash may have multiple manual modes. Full power and some lower power modes.
For example lets say the flash guide number is 45 meters with 100ISO film. If you're 10 meters away then you set the camera to 45/10 or F/4.5. If the flash provides lower power manual modes then instead of using 45 you use the lower power output.
It's easier if you shoot straight at the subject. If you bounce off the wall you have to figure out the distance for the bounce. OTOH it'll usually look better if you bounce off the ceiling or something.
Describe the dial and somebody can give you a better answer.
Can't remember all details (could have it mixed with 60CT) but the red/white slider is the power on/off switch. I think I remember the handle having a slider with selection of ASA with a selection of F-Stop on it for auto. If this is what it looks like, then to set it to auto mode, set ASA, then select an aperture as indicated on the scale. Set the camera and off you go. In the charge mode, underneath the plastic cover plate of the battery compartment, top right corner is a small selector for NICAD/Pb. Make sure it is OFF the Pb if you are using the NICAD battery. Have fun!
Originally Posted by eumenius
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