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  1. #1

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    Flash vs Tungsten

    Hi all
    I browsed through the Impex catalogue the other day. They have some cheap photolamps ( 149€/kit). Flashstrobes are so expensive so I was wondering "Hmm should I get a kit ?" I think the heat and power problems are solved with the daylight bulbs/tubes but how about output ? Will a set of photolamps deliver the goods ? Are there other significant differences ?
    Regards Søren

  2. #2

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    Quote Originally Posted by Soeren
    Hi all
    I browsed through the Impex catalogue the other day. They have some cheap photolamps ( 149€/kit). Flashstrobes are so expensive so I was wondering "Hmm should I get a kit ?" I think the heat and power problems are solved with the daylight bulbs/tubes but how about output ? Will a set of photolamps deliver the goods ? Are there other significant differences ?
    Regards Søren
    I use strobes (400 watts Multiblitzes) and like them a lot because of the limited heat they put off and the power of these flashes.
    But the kit you have found I would get, too! With the Daylight bulbs heat wouldn't be an issue if you work in a ventilated room. But the output I don't know about.

    I find both types of light appealing as flash will give you more power, but it is more difficult to match with the available light. Floods will generate more heat and is less powerful but will give you a "What-you-see-is-what-you-get"-feeling when matching it with available light.

    The kit you found may be finding it's way to my studio, too as I can find use for both strobes and floods.

    Morten

  3. #3

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    Morten, can I have a key to your studio
    Cheers Søren

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by Soeren
    Morten, can I have a key to your studio
    Cheers Søren


    You are welcome to shoot in my studio someday if you come to Århus. Then I brew some good coffee for you, too.
    This goes for all of you, but some are too far away from Denmark to come visit me. But everyone are welcome

    Another thing regarding the flash vs. floods. If you get floods you can meter with your camera's meter instead of a handheld flash meter. This furthermore brings down the price.

    Morten

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by modafoto


    You are welcome to shoot in my studio someday if you come to Århus. Then I brew some good coffee for you, too.
    This goes for all of you, but some are too far away from Denmark to come visit me. But everyone are welcome

    Another thing regarding the flash vs. floods. If you get floods you can meter with your camera's meter instead of a handheld flash meter. This furthermore brings down the price.

    Morten
    Thanks for the invitation Morten. Considering the railprices the ADOX-kit would pay itself in a couple of weeks though
    Oh yes the metering. But I do have a handheld meter and my MF don't have a built-in.
    What happened to the Rodinal bottle in your avatar ?
    Don't tell me you broke it
    Does any one know about the output from these things ?
    Søren

  6. #6

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    soeren -

    i am not sure if you can get lowel lights in DK, but they are a pretty good alternative to expensive lighting. i don't mean the hot lights like the tota or omni lights, but the original lowel light ... i think now it is called the "L light". they sell tehm one at a time, if you want just a single or 2 lights, or they sell in kits (box, receptical, barn doors/clamp and sometimes the flood lights) for not very much money and don't take tungston bulbs, but floods. i have bought a few of these kits (new they are kind of $$-ey )for less than 100$ (10 lights). i use one of them when i print on azo

    http://www.lowel.com/lowellight/lowel-light_e.html#info

    i used them pretty often when i had a studio space - i liked the ability to see exactly what the light was doing all the time, but these days since i have the "basement studio" and shoot mostly on location, it is a little tougher ... i use one of two things one or two 300 ws monoblocks (novatron m300 ) or one head of lumedyne 224. i kind of like the lumdeyne best because it really really portable and now it has a resister sort of thing that allows you to adjust the light output by 7 stops (between 200 WS and 3 WS ) with a "trim" device to give you inbetween stops too .. so if you only want a itsy bit of light or a bunch of light, it does the trick

    not sure if this helps at all ..

    -john
    Last edited by jnanian; 04-18-2005 at 11:24 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  7. #7
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    Coming at this from another point of view, I think a lot of people especially newbies shooting portraits think that they need a bunch of lights to get good work. They see pros have 4 or 6 lites and think that they will need that too. Well maybe, but starting out most people don't have a clue where to put them anyways and if they started with just ONE, they could learn to light, and later on they could add more.

    With that in mind you can pick up used monolights for probably half what they cost new. It's a great way to start and after a while you can have a set of great lites and not a closet full of cheap stuff that you bought once because of price.

    Michael
    I couldn't think of anything witty to say so I left this blank.

  8. #8

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    Soeren,
    The only problem you may have with tungsten lighting is color balance with color film. The daylight lamps burn @~5K kelvin & have a rather short life ~4hrs. color temp shifts lower as the bulb ages. If you're shooting B&W color temp isn't a factor.

  9. #9
    david b's Avatar
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    I just sold a set of speedotrons that needed a power pack for ONE calumet travelite that plugs directly into the wall.

    It is a great light that is highly adjustable and I have even used the 250w modeling light by itself.

    Start with one light....you'll be much happier.

  10. #10
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    Lighting-kit choice is a question that faces everyone - except those who choose to shoot only with natural light. And, many have gone through several kits before arriving at something that works for them - essentially, wasting a lot of money along the way (even though the interim solutions seemed economical at the time of purchase).

    Tungsten lights can be inexpensive, but tend not to be very practical for people work. Once you get enough light that enables you to shoot at reasonable exposures, the light is too intense for people to open their eyes, and their skin starts to darken, crack and peel.

    Thus, my suggestion would be really give some thought to what you shoot, and how you want to shoot it (e.g. at what apertures, with which light modifiers, etc.), before taking the plunge. Then, decide on a product line with which you can grow over time as the budget allows.
    [COLOR=SlateGray]"You can't depend on your eyes if your imagination is out of focus." -Mark Twain[/COLOR]

    Ralph Barker
    Rio Rancho, NM

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