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  1. #11
    bobfowler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by df cardwell
    What kind of F/stop do you like ? The good news is that ISO 400 is VERY good with 8x10 portraiture, and you get the vital choice of curve shapes. TMY is a GREAT choice.

    Look for Speedotron black line. Simple, and lots of raw power. If you have zillion bucks, why not Bron ? But Speedo is industrial strength, easy to fix if you need it, and there are tons of it available used.

    You CAN get by with 1200 ws. 2400 is better. 4800 ws are kind of profligate, but handy. The cool thing about a 4800 ws pack is that you can run 4 heads, and that gives you 1000w of modeling light. You don't need it all the time, and you usually will turn down the modeling lights, but if you want to see at f/32, it's handy.

    The big demand on strobes is banging out pictures on a motor drive, roll after roll all day long. In the Kodachrome Era, a 1/3 stop fluctuation was frustrating and a 1/2 was fatal. But B&W sheets, every minute or so, makes the load on a pack pretty low. You can shoot for years with 8x10 and the flash will never know you're there.

    Check with your local pro repair house, and see whose gear they fix. That's the important thing.


    Don

    "This suspense is terrible. I hope it lasts."
    Don hit the nail on the head - your choice of film and required f/stop is important to know before you make a purchase decision. David also makes an important point when he asked about your choice of light modifiers. If you're into using soft boxes, the reflective quality of the internal fabric and the degree of diffusion of the face panel will make a difference in getting to your desired f/stop.
    Bob Fowler
    fowler@verizon.net
    Some people are like Slinkies. They're really good for nothing, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs.

  2. #12
    TheFlyingCamera's Avatar
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    At the moment, I have Photoflex softboxes (which may get replaced sooner rather than later because the insides are yellowing... I understand this is a common complaint with these, but at the time I was getting them, they were not known for doing this... yet). I'm thinking I will need F16-F32 depending on where I'm placing my models and/or how tight I'm shooting. Since I am relatively new to 8x10, my film choice is not settled yet. I've got a box of HP5+, which I'm going to give a try. I usually process my film in PMK Pyro, so I'll rate the HP5 at 200. That still gives me a whole lotta speed over my other film choice, FP4+, which I normally rate at 64.

  3. #13
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    If you want f:16-32 and you use large softboxes, then the more light the better.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  4. #14
    TheFlyingCamera's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David A. Goldfarb
    If you want f:16-32 and you use large softboxes, then the more light the better.
    Yes, I realize that. My original question was did anyone have any particular experience with the aforementioned brands, and which did they recommend?

  5. #15

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    Shooting 10 x 8 w flash.

    There are still many variables to consider, eg how reflective are the walls in your "studio"? What type of pictures do you wish to take?

    I shoot 10 x 8 with flash from time to time with a "Strobex swimming pool" (approx 5ft x 4ft softbox - no longer manufactured and a UK product...I suspect Speedtron may be the closest comparison). I usually use 5000j but, by doubling up the power packs, I can get 10,000j.

    Factors affecting output include the size of the softbox, proximity to subject, absorption characteristics of diffuser materials etc etc. For instance a bare light source from 3ft will require less power than a diffused one from the same distance....Not knowing exactly how you intend to manipulate the light makes it difficult to predict what you require.

    From a personal perspective, I'd suggest that you need at least 5000j as a starting off point, otherwise your choice of apertures will be too limited - this will limit the products available to choose from ; as another contributor said Bron are good but expensive, I've been impressed by Profoto on the occasions I've used it - but any 5000j pack should serve, they've been designed to pump out a lot of energy and it would be difficult to build a bad one...they'd probably self destruct!

    Please bear in mind that you're handling (many times) the lethal dose of electricity at these levels - be sure to get appropriate training.

    Best Wishes
    Jerry Lebens

  6. #16

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    Just about any manufacturers light source will work as long as it has enough power. I usually use a two light set-up of White Lighting Ultras for my studio figure work. With asa 320 type films (tri-x or 400 asa cut down) I regularly shoot with f-stops of f32-f45. I use a bounce reflector umbrella instead of the softboxes.
    George Losse
    www.georgelosse.com

  7. #17
    Paul Sorensen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeremy Moore
    That's true, didn't think about that fact, ack! May melt the sitter :-)
    When I first read this I thought you said "May melt the shutter." That really scared me. The sitter is one thing, but the shutter, no way we can risk that!

  8. #18
    Jeremy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Sorensen
    When I first read this I thought you said "May melt the shutter." That really scared me. The sitter is one thing, but the shutter, no way we can risk that!
    Let's see what I've got in the magic trash can for Mateo!

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