An incident meter is not a replacement for a spotmeter and in my experience will not generate as good results for outdoor work where the subject is "over there" rather than "here". There are a number of reasons for this, but primarily

Any single meter reading methodology is sub-optimal when your film can cope with much less contrast than the eye. It is at least helpful and sometimes essential to know (measure) the brightness range within the scene and relate that to the capabilities of your film. A spotmeter can help you do this, an incident meter doesn't.

The light "over there" -which the spotmeter measures- is often not the same as the light "here" whiich is what the incident meter measures. Days when there is a mix of cloud and sun, or with varying cloud thickness, demonstrate this very well. Standing in shade to photograph a scene in the sun-which I often do- are another example.

There is no real debate about how to use a spot meter, but the same isn't true of an incident meter. Take a look at any online debate on this issue and you'll see a huge debate on how best to orientate an incident meter to cope with contre -jour situations and sidelight. Every expert has their own theory and frankly they can't all be right.

My own experience, which has to cope with the fact that most of my photography involves high contrast colour slide emulsions, is that taking multiple readings from round the scene with a narrow-angle spot meter is by far the most accurate way to meter in landscape /cityscape type situations, and that incident metering is a quick and easy way to get an approximation.

With regard to brand of spotmeter, most of my experience has been with Sekonics, particularly the 508 and I find these work well for me. However I have no doubt that meters made by others are just as accurate and that the brand choice between the credible players (Pentax, Minolta, Gossen, Sekonic)should depend on the fit with the way you work( they all work a little differently) rather than on inherent accuracy.