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  1. #11
    blansky's Avatar
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    What is the model of the meter. You say you are using a speedotron brownline?

    I've never used them but if nobody here knows, contact a pro camera place and describe what you are doing. There needs to be a way to trigger the lights to get your reading.

    Even if you can't plug into that particular meter, there must be a speedotron trigger you can plug into the sync and have a ten foot cord so you stand at the subject, and can trigger and get your reading at the same time.

    Michael
    I couldn't think of anything witty to say so I left this blank.

  2. #12
    djkloss's Avatar
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    Thanks Paul, I already have the manual and there is a button on the side - one for flash and one for ambient. I'm using the right setting. Its a Luna Pro F - a pretty good meter - I like it. Lightning bolt for flash & sun for ambient.

  3. #13
    djkloss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blansky
    What is the model of the meter. You say you are using a speedotron brownline?

    I've never used them but if nobody here knows, contact a pro camera place and describe what you are doing. There needs to be a way to trigger the lights to get your reading.

    Even if you can't plug into that particular meter, there must be a speedotron trigger you can plug into the sync and have a ten foot cord so you stand at the subject, and can trigger and get your reading at the same time.

    Michael
    Gossen Luna Pro F
    Speedotron D1402
    I triggered the flash with a 6 ft cord connected from camera to powersupply (camera in one hand) and meter in the other hand (incident)

    Ok, what about the wattage of the flash bulbs themselves? I don't know what they are. I know they're supposed to be lower than the pwr supply

  4. #14
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    Ok I read up (sideways) on the closest thing to this meter I could find-here-

    http://www.gossen-photo.de/pdf/ba_lunasixf_e.pdf

    If your meter operates the same (it probably does) you have to set the meter to flash, then depress, and release the meter button, then trigger the flash, then calculate the reading using your chosen ASA and 1/60 of a second as your shutter speed. So you push and release the button first, then trigger the flash. Theoretically, at least thats how I read it. No sync needed. Never seen this before. But I live in Utah If that doesn't do it, IDK.
    That's just, like, my opinion, man...

  5. #15
    blansky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by djkloss
    Gossen Luna Pro F
    Speedotron D1402
    I triggered the flash with a 6 ft cord connected from camera to powersupply (camera in one hand) and meter in the other hand (incident)

    Ok, what about the wattage of the flash bulbs themselves? I don't know what they are. I know they're supposed to be lower than the pwr supply
    If the power supply is 1400ws like you mentioned that is the power available to you. If you use one head, I think you can get 1400ws out of it.(not sure) It depends on what the head can handle. It should say on the back.

    If you use 2 heads there should be a way on the power pack to configure what you want to go to each head.

    The ws numbers apply to the flash not the modeling lights. Those are probably adjustable on the power pack but they are only for your convenience to see where the light is going and to show you approximately what the picture would look like.

    Like I said, for what you described, 5 feet etc, you should only need about 2-300 ws for a f8-11 at 125 of a second.

    All power packs are different and configure differently and you probably need the instructions or someone who is familiar with them to understand their capabilities fully.


    Michael
    I couldn't think of anything witty to say so I left this blank.

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by djkloss
    Ok, what about the wattage of the flash bulbs themselves? I don't know what they are. I know they're supposed to be lower than the pwr supply

    Don't know about the brownline but I think most of the blackline bulbs are 3200ws. That's more then any of the packs puts out to the head. Makes sense you don't want to blow a bulb.

    Why not go back and try with just one head plugged in?

    http://www.speedotron.com/BrnInst.htm#anchor2

    "MW3 and M90 series (non-"Q") light units have a maximum rating of 400Ws, while "Q" versions are rated at 1200Ws. M11 light units are rated at 1200Ws (the new MW9H flash tubes supplied with M11 light units handle up to 1200Ws; MW9M flash tubes have a maximum capacity of 1000Ws.) and M11Q light units are rated at 2400Ws."

    "D1204 Power Distribution Table
    One light: Symmetrical mode in any outlet, will receive 1200Ws.
    Asymmetrical mode in outlets 1 or 2, will receive 1200Ws; when using outlets 3 or 4 output is 900Ws.

    Two lights: Symmetrical mode, all outlets share an equal amount of power. Two lights each receive 600Ws (1200Ws divided by 2).
    Asymmetrical mode
    Combination 1: one light in outlet 1 or 2 receives 600Ws; the second light in outlet 3 or 4 receives 300Ws.
    Combination 2: in outlets 1 and 2 receive 600Ws each.
    Combination 3: in outlets 3 and 4 will receive 300Ws each."

  7. #17
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    I like JBrunner's answer. I think there's something wrong with the way you are using the meter.

    On my Minolta Flashmeter III, there is a setting for use with a sync cord like Blansky describes, and there is a setting for use without a cord in the way that JBrunner describes based on the Lunasix F manual--press and release the meter button, then trigger the flash.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  8. #18
    djkloss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David A. Goldfarb
    I like JBrunner's answer. I think there's something wrong with the way you are using the meter.
    --press and release the meter button, then trigger the flash.
    Not to be redundant, but that is the way I'm using it.

    I will keep trying some other options...

    and... thank you all for your suggestions. The only thing I haven't tried so far is a different room - white walls - different reflectors, different umbrella. Different meter! :o doh!

  9. #19
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    It could be a problem with the meter. One thing you could do, if you don't have immediate access to another meter, is do a quick objective test on film or Polaroid.

    Before I had a flash meter I did tests on film with each reflector and diffuser that I had, and before a shoot, I would diagram the lighting setup and calculate the exposure based on the tested guide number. I still had some flexibility to move the lights as long as I kept the distance between the main light and subject, fill light and subject, and background light at background constant.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  10. #20
    djkloss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David A. Goldfarb
    It could be a problem with the meter. One thing you could do, if you don't have immediate access to another meter, is do a quick objective test on film or Polaroid.

    Before I had a flash meter I did tests on film with each reflector and diffuser that I had, and before a shoot, I would diagram the lighting setup and calculate the exposure based on the tested guide number. I still had some flexibility to move the lights as long as I kept the distance between the main light and subject, fill light and subject, and background light at background constant.
    the quick objective test sounds like a good idea. just shoot a roll, document it and draw a diagram. I was wondering too, if maybe I'm interpreting the meter reading incorrectly. I tried doing the guide number formula and the numbers matched more closely to what everyone else was saying. I also tried using white walls and a white mat board on a table top, and not much change. Maybe its just me! I never was very good at math!

    thanks again......time to get back to the drawing board....

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