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Thread: Studio flash

  1. #11
    JBrunner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AeisLugh
    The ones I've been seeing actually have the ability to link up to the camera via a sync cable. Hell, Henry's has a kit, brand new, for 150 bucks ("flash" stand, and umbrella reflector). I'm been contemplating it for months now, I'm just afraid to pay the money out for it and find out it's crap. Of course, the absense of a modelling light is a real drawback
    Yeah, I know what you mean. I have been the victim of "you get what you pay for" more often than not when I try to save money. Thats why I was so impressed with the bees, because even though they are more expensive than the kit you mention, they are still at the lower end of the price scale. Oh, not only do the bees have a modeling light, the modeling light tracks with the amount of output, which on the bees is a sliding, not stepping adjustment.

    Sheesh, I sound like a salesman :rolleyes:

    They aren't the very best units out there, like the be all end all of mono lights. The accessories (stands, brellas, boxes etc.) feel a little cheap, but I didn't pay $120 for a stand either, and everything has held up so far.
    They have been a helluva value for me.

  2. #12
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    Personally, I am a pack & head guy and I can't say enough good things about Dyna-Lite. Lightweight, powerful, reliable, lots of reasonably priced accessories, good color balance and an industry standard in rental houses along with Profoto and Speedotron.

    Also, one word of caution with lower end or manufacturer direct strobes like Alien Bees and white lightning. I have heard reports of bad UV problems with some of those strobes in the past.
    -- If film is dead, then how come I can't buy a Leica for 20 bucks? --

    Mark Greenberg
    Editorial & Commercial Photographer
    www.markgreenbergphoto.com

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by AeisLugh
    Has anyone had any experience with them? are they worth even bothering with?

    If it's what I think they are you'll find a list of issues.

    1) Real slow recycle times.

    2) Not much power

    3) A lack of control. So either too little or too much power.

    4) Bulbs can't be changed. Worse I think the rated number of flashes might be low.

    5) No way of mounting a speedring.

    The question becomes do any of the issues matter to you? Depending on how you intend to use them none or possibly all the issues might matter.

    I haven't looked at the Henry's kit for awhile but IIRC it's a not very good stand and not that exciting umbrella. Personally I'd I wanted the light I'd buy it on it's own and then buy a good stand and umbrella. This way latter you won't feel the need to upgrade the stand along with the light.

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Zentena
    If it's what I think they are you'll find a list of issues.

    1) Real slow recycle times.

    2) Not much power

    3) A lack of control. So either too little or too much power.

    4) Bulbs can't be changed. Worse I think the rated number of flashes might be low.

    5) No way of mounting a speedring.

    The question becomes do any of the issues matter to you? Depending on how you intend to use them none or possibly all the issues might matter.

    I haven't looked at the Henry's kit for awhile but IIRC it's a not very good stand and not that exciting umbrella. Personally I'd I wanted the light I'd buy it on it's own and then buy a good stand and umbrella. This way latter you won't feel the need to upgrade the stand along with the light.
    Yeah, I wasn't fooling myself, I figured they were pretty rudimentary, and I knew that if the "blub" went, it was gonna be 50 or so bucks to replace. I've just never worked with flashes outside of the internal flash on point and shoot cameras. I was taught to use an SLR with ambient light only, so am kind of nervous about shelling out money for equipment I have no idea how to use. At the same time though, I want to learn that aspect of photography, so I need to get my hands on the equipment.

    I think my best bet is going to be doing some more looking for someplace that'll rent equipment out in my area and just do some experimenting. I just wish there were someplace in town, all I'm finding is stuff in toronto, and I don't drive

  5. #15

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    You could just get one of the bigger camera flashes and mount it to a tripod. You can get an umbrella holder and a slave sync or just use a cable. Won't cost anymore then one of those little lights and you'll be able to use the flash on the camera when you need it.

  6. #16
    Ed Sukach's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mgphoto
    Personally, I am a pack & head guy and I can't say enough good things about Dyna-Lite. Lightweight, powerful, reliable, lots of reasonably priced accessories, good color balance and an industry standard in rental houses along with Profoto and Speedotron.
    I also use, and swear by DynaLites. They have the lightest heads of all that I've seen, and every ounce becomes "very" important when they are hanging on the end of a counter balanced boom.
    They also have a TON of power! Even used with the most inefficient light boxes an umbrellas, I am on the edge of reaching for ND filters.

    Also, one word of caution with lower end or manufacturer direct strobes like Alien Bees and white lightning. I have heard reports of bad UV problems with some of those strobes in the past.
    I wouldn't call either "lower end". I know a few that use both and like them as much as I like my Dynas.

    ALL DynaLites come UV corrected. I'd check the Alien Bees and White Lightning specifications ... I haven't heard of any color balance or UV problems with them.
    Carpe erratum!!

    Ed Sukach, FFP.

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Zentena
    You could just get one of the bigger camera flashes and mount it to a tripod. You can get an umbrella holder and a slave sync or just use a cable. Won't cost anymore then one of those little lights and you'll be able to use the flash on the camera when you need it.
    Any recommendation on what I should be looking for in a camera flash? I'm using an old minolta xg-9, are there any issues with certain flashes not being compatable with older cameras?

  8. #18

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    Newer flashes might have features that you're older camera can't use. They can also lack manual controls. No worries plenty of older flashes out there. Best because they aren't the whiz bang new stuff they cost a lot less then the new stuff.

    If it was me I'd look for an older Metz 45. Avoid the CT-5 model. If the CT-1 or CL-1 is cheap enough it'll do fine on a manual camera. If you have any cameras with TTL flash then look for the Ct-3,CT-4,CL-3 or the CL-4. Todays market they aren't much more expensive then the non-TTL versions.

    If you find a good deal on a bigger Metz 60 that will work fine to. But these seem to have held thier value better.

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Zentena
    Newer flashes might have features that you're older camera can't use. They can also lack manual controls. No worries plenty of older flashes out there. Best because they aren't the whiz bang new stuff they cost a lot less then the new stuff.

    If it was me I'd look for an older Metz 45. Avoid the CT-5 model. If the CT-1 or CL-1 is cheap enough it'll do fine on a manual camera. If you have any cameras with TTL flash then look for the Ct-3,CT-4,CL-3 or the CL-4. Todays market they aren't much more expensive then the non-TTL versions.

    If you find a good deal on a bigger Metz 60 that will work fine to. But these seem to have held thier value better.
    out of curiousity, what's wrong with the CT-5? thanks for the advice though, I've been puzzling over the flash units for some time trying to figure out how I know what will work with my camera that won't turn it into a glorified point and shoot.

  10. #20

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    The CT-5 uses the no longer produced 500 series of camera modules. That would be okay if the flashes sold for a discount but they seem to sell for prices similar to the newer CT-3 and CT-4. I think they are also all high voltage so will cause problems for newer cameras. That should also lower the selling price.

    The oldest CT-1 are also high voltage. If you go to the Metz website they should have a serial number cutoff that shows which are high voltage and which aren't.

    If you're camera is new enough to have problems with high voltage you can deal with that in a few different ways.

    The nice thing about the TTL Metz [CT-3,CT-4,Cl-3 and CL-4] is with the right module they'll support most/all the features your camera would provide a dedicated flash. Or you can switch them to auto mode and let the flash do a pretty good job. Or you can switch them to manual mode and do all the thinking yourself.

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