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Thread: Studio flash

  1. #21
    colrehogan's Avatar
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    What flash unit(s) might be good for LF studio portraiture?
    Diane

    Halak 41

  2. #22
    blansky's Avatar
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    As I said I use Photogenics monolights, that have 600ws at full power. If I were shooting large format I'd be looking at units that have maybe 1800WS per head.

    Obviously fill lights need more power since they are further from the subject. As I mentioned I only get 5.6 at about 15ft with an umbrella at 600ws, but as a mainlight at about 4 ft I only use about 200ws of power.

    So maybe look for units that can give you about 1800.


    Michael
    I couldn't think of anything witty to say so I left this blank.

  3. #23
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    Another thing to keep in mind is that watt-seconds is not a measure of the light coming form the flash head - it is a measure of the power sent to the flashtube. Actual amount of light generated to the subject can vary somewhat depending on a variety of factors: length of cord from pack to head, design of flashtube and reflector, and angle of coverage.

    Bob
    "I always take a camera, That way I never have to say 'Gee, look at that - I wish I had a camera'" -Joe Clark, H.B.S.S.

  4. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Zentena
    The CT-5 uses the no longer produced 500 series of camera modules. That would be okay if the flashes sold for a discount but they seem to sell for prices similar to the newer CT-3 and CT-4. I think they are also all high voltage so will cause problems for newer cameras. That should also lower the selling price.

    The oldest CT-1 are also high voltage. If you go to the Metz website they should have a serial number cutoff that shows which are high voltage and which aren't.

    If you're camera is new enough to have problems with high voltage you can deal with that in a few different ways.

    The nice thing about the TTL Metz [CT-3,CT-4,Cl-3 and CL-4] is with the right module they'll support most/all the features your camera would provide a dedicated flash. Or you can switch them to auto mode and let the flash do a pretty good job. Or you can switch them to manual mode and do all the thinking yourself.
    Thanks. looks like I can get a CT-3 from KEH for like 40 bucks, that's not bad at all. Doesn't have the NiCad battery pack with it (thats an extra 50 bucks on the price) but it's still a good start. At least I know a good one to look for now

  5. #25

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    I wouldn't get the Ni-Cad battery. Used to be some guy on Ebay selling AA battery holders for I think less then $10. If it's just the flash you'll need at least a cable. Maybe even a bracket. Good thing is I think all the current parts from Metz fit the CT-3. Except maybe the new Nihm battery holder.

  6. #26
    Jim Jones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by colrehogan
    What flash unit(s) might be good for LF studio portraiture?
    I've used White Lightning units for many years with perfect reliability. The current X3200 model has a guide number of 343 with the 7" supplied reflector, and 640 with the 11" reflector. The UltraZap X1600 is being closed out at a reduced price. It has guide numbers of 236 and 450. Even this might suffice for individual and small group portraits.

  7. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by colrehogan
    What flash unit(s) might be good for LF studio portraiture?

    The Speedotron Force 10 puts out quite a bit of power. I think the claimed GN is about 500 with the 11" reflector. From using it I don't think that's unrealistic.

  8. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Zentena
    I wouldn't get the Ni-Cad battery. Used to be some guy on Ebay selling AA battery holders for I think less then $10. If it's just the flash you'll need at least a cable. Maybe even a bracket. Good thing is I think all the current parts from Metz fit the CT-3. Except maybe the new Nihm battery holder.
    the lot on KEH comes with the AA battery holder. for the money I save, I could pick up some NiMH batteries to use with it lol

  9. #29

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    I still have a couple norman and spedo sets but have converted to mono lights. Did so 6 or 8 years ago and won't go back. I love them! They range in volume from 1600w/s to 200. It is so nice to have self contained cases that you unload at the loction where you want the light then tear down and go. everything you need (cables, reflecters, radio slaves) all together. They are all packed in cases a little larger than a brief case and marked. It is so easy. If we're shooting interiors we grab all the cases. smaller jobs you just grab what you need and run. Larger spaces need more light so I was worried about using the smaller monoligfhts but as it turned out I only lost about 1/2 a stop. Pretty amazing! We're usually at around 11.5 (single pop) for the larger spaces and what ever we want for smaller spaces. As far as durability I've only lost one unit. It was the first unit we bought and it was a tester I bought used, so who knows what it went through before we got it. The norman and speedo stuff worked great! but for effiency they are slow and cumbersum. They also rattle the walls trying to suck power into the capacitors. periodically blowing circuits if were'nt careful about how many we run in line. With the mono heads this problem dissapeared.
    Stop trying to get into my mind, There is nothing there!

  10. #30

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    For portraits in a studio I wouldn't worry about the power to much, I use 1500W lights and never have them on full power most of the time even less than half their power.
    With people you usually don't need a big depth of field wich means your lens will be a bit further open allowing more light in.
    When you want to shoot still lives etc with sharpness from front to back (lenses stopped down) or shoot a lot at locations (or huge studios) you might think about more power.

    cheers!

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