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  1. #21
    TheFlyingCamera's Avatar
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    For both my own comfort and that of my models, I use primarily studio flash units. I have a pair of 750 ws monolights. Normally, I use one light on the subject, in a softbox. Depending on how dramatic I want the lighting, I may have the face on the box, or just the diffusion baffle. If I want REALLY dramatic, it's a large reflector dish with barndoors for the main. A reflector opposite serves for fill. My second light is used to light the background, if I want to open it up or blow it out. For that purpose, actually, I could stand a third light to make sure I blow out the background evenly.

    I'm shooting almost exclusively large format film (5x7, 8x10, 11x14) and contact printing, so grain is a non-issue regardless of speed. My studio is miniscule, so I stick to slow speed films to keep my exposures under control - were I to use HP5 or Tmax 400, I wouldn't be able to power down my strobes enough to use the relatively large apertures I prefer, even when shooting 8x10. My films of preference are FP4+, shot at ISO 64, and Fomapan 200, shot at 100. I develop in Pyrocat HD at 1:1:100. I've just started experimenting with dry plate glass plates, which is an interesting challenge in itself. Now THAT'S slow... about ISO 1. I will NEED more powerful strobes for that - I'm thinking Speedotron Black Line 4803cx. Most everything else out there in that power range costs a fortune, even used.

  2. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by TheFlyingCamera View Post


    I'm shooting almost exclusively large format film (5x7, 8x10, 11x14) and contact printing, so grain is a non-issue regardless of speed. My studio is miniscule, so I stick to slow speed films to keep my exposures under control - were I to use HP5 or Tmax 400, I wouldn't be able to power down my strobes enough to use the relatively large apertures I prefer, even when shooting 8x10. My films of preference are FP4+, shot at ISO 64, and Fomapan 200, shot at 100. I develop in Pyrocat HD at 1:1:100. I've just started experimenting with dry plate glass plates, which is an interesting challenge in itself. Now THAT'S slow... about ISO 1. I will NEED more powerful strobes for that - I'm thinking Speedotron Black Line 4803cx. Most everything else out there in that power range costs a fortune, even used.
    Unless you're putting 4800 ws out of one head why not get a couple of 2400 packs instead? Likely cheaper on the used market. My elderly 2401A with one 102 head was $300 I think. IIRC correct they even make a cable to plug one 4800 ws head into two packs. Or maybe I'm remembering wrong :rolleyes: But 2400ws per head is a lot of light for portraits. Mine is packed now or I'd plug it in and test the output but I think the numbers in the manual are reasonable with a reflector. You could always mount the 16" sports reflector and get even more

  3. #23
    TheFlyingCamera's Avatar
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    I am thinking of putting 4800 ws through one head, for doing wet-plate and/or daguerrotypes in the future, where their ISO is somewhere around 0.05 or even less.

  4. #24

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    http://www.speedotron.com/BlkLineInst.pdf

    Go to the end of the document. The 4800 pack is only about 50% more powerful.

  5. #25
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    If that's the case, it would make more sense to daisy-chain 2400 packs instead.

  6. #26
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    For myself, I prefer natural light, except when I don't.



    (Sunlight through leaves and "spun" wavy plexi, then the face smoothed out by an umbrella'd 580EX to camera right, about face level)

    There is no "prefered" light that doesn't quickly become banal. Of course, some situations (say, exec portraits for the annual report) WANT that.

    Lots of mixed lighting here btw
    Last edited by bjorke; 09-09-2007 at 08:43 PM. Click to view previous post history.

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