> If I understand you correctly, I should be shooting in Aperature Priority mode with an appropriate f-stop and about +1 correction dialed in.
More or less right. Aperture priority should be fine assuming the camera doesn't let the shutter speed drop below the synch speed when you're using flash. Most don't.
As for correction, experiment. Shoot one without correction, one with +1/2 or so and one at +1; perhaps when you have the film printed you could ask the lab techs to tell you which of the three exposures was best. The main thing to remember is that negative film loves more exposure, the more the better (to a point of course), while underexposure kills it.
> The exact f-stop chosen will probably be determined by some experimentation.
Right. Your camera should provide you some feedback regarding that in the form of some sort of in-viewfinder "flash OK" indicator. If you don't get the OK indication then you'll need to use a wider aperture.
BTW, I assume you've eliminated printing variables as the cause of the problem. Modern machine prints can be superb or horrible; it all depends on the operator.
Actually, both the camera and the flashes have indications. They will indicate that the flash fired OK and there is a different indication for the flash firing at full power but the camera still didn't think it was enough.
Now that you mention it, I'm not positive how the camera handles the flash in aperature priority mode. I'll check on that, but I don't think it will force the the shutter any faster than the fastest flash sync speed (1/125 for the N80). A good thing to check though before I start.
A quick update here.
I got an Ecosphere for my birthday (a sealed glass sphere with a self contained environment inside) and decided I would like to take some pictures of it to send to my family. Because the thing is all glass filled with water, my normal "mount flash on the camera and blaze away" technique wasn't going to work.
So, I took a deep breath, put a diffuser on the SB-50 and set it up about 45 degrees off to one side, used some white paper to diffuse the on camer flash and...
It all seemed to work. The SB-50 did trigger automatically and, after I got over my surprise at how well it worked, I experimented with different angles on the remote lighting. I haven't gotten the pictures back yet but I will probably post one or two on this thread so you can tell me what I could have done better.