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  1. #11
    TheFlyingCamera's Avatar
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    looks like I'll just have to start saving my pennies, and shooting more photo jobs to cobble together the scratch to get a Broncolor set.

  2. #12
    TheFlyingCamera's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pinholemaster View Post
    Why not a big, powerful HMI light? Yes your subject must sit for 10 to 15 seconds, but everyone had to do that in the 19th century.

    Don't forget to soften the light with a shoot through scrim.

    Broncolor makes such nice stuff that I can't afford.
    In the interim, I can probably get a decent fluorescent set that will have more output - I saw a Bowens light unit that has a total of 270 watts of output that might do the job, and costs a fraction of what the Broncolor set runs.

  3. #13
    RobertP's Avatar
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    Most wet platers are using banks of fluorescents. They claim to work better with the wet plate process . Check out the wet plate collodion forum. There are a lot of posts there and some really nice work being done with fluoro's. The color temp is right for wet plate, is how I understand it.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheFlyingCamera View Post
    looks like I'll just have to start saving my pennies, and shooting more photo jobs to cobble together the scratch to get a Broncolor set.
    You can find the packs for little enough money.. at least the 3200ws packs - but the heads are BRUTALLY expensive. Personally - I'd recommend a 4800ws speedo kit. the pack will run you around $500-700 and the heads will be about $150 each up to 2400ws (maybe up to $300 for a 4800ws head). Whereas the bron heads will be $600-700 each for the cheapest ones... the high wattage heads will run you over $1000 each. This is all talking used, of course!

  5. #15
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    I have a couple of old 6000 watt-second Broncolor powerpacks, which run off 220V. Put through the appropriate Broncolor hazylight/head, it's plenty of light for just about any project.

    And I didn't pay that much for all of it

  6. #16
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    For wet plate I'd look at fluorescent too. However, in flash I've always been very happy with Elinchrom: I have some monoblocks for 'out and about' use, but when I need power in the studio or for a large interior on LF the packs have plenty. I use a little 1,000 Ws pack, three 4,000 Ws packs, and one of the very nice digital asymmetric 3,000 Ws packs, and doubt I'll ever need more light than that - and I can hire easily if I do.

    Each of these packs will take up to three heads, so I have a lot of flexibility with this set up.

    Two of the 4,000 Ws packs can be cabled into a single X8 head. The X8 isn't quite as near to being a point source as the X6 with its more cunningly folded twin tubes, but the X8 is still a small source (smaller than the Speedotron four tube head). This gives a lot of light from a small source, or a very bright softbox. Also, because the X6 is newer, you may find a used X8 head for not that much money.

    If I was starting out and had no limits at all on my budget I'd look at Broncolor, Profoto, and Strobex as well as Elinchrom, but I'm not sure that I wouldn't end up choosing Elinchrom anyway: reliable, powerful, controllable and very good service. Excellent range of reflectors and heads, including third party heads by Bacht et al. (Though I would like a Strobex swimming pool...)



    Peter

  7. #17

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    You can also order Profotos without UV coated tubes. You might also check with other companies. Many times you can order heads with non-UV coated tubes, but they might not list it in the catalog. Just have a dealer check with the reps.

    BTW, the primary reason for using fluorescent lights with the collodion is that they put out a lot of UV light and most people don't want to gamble buying high priced strobes (with non-UV coated tubes). Years ago, I got a non-UV coated head for my old Profoto 5. I used it for daguerreotypes. Based on a somewhat similar spectral sensitivity, it should work for collodion.

  8. #18
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    For 125.00 you can get a Fotodiox bank that holds 16 30 watt spiral bulbs. It has a switch that will allows you to switch off half if you like. It has the same intensity of a 1800 watt fresnel. Plus you can buy the soft box that has an inner and outer baffle for it. I just bought three of them for wet plate. I'll let you know how they work out as soon as I get a chance to try them. I think I paid more for the bulbs than I did the light. The light is built surprisingly strong and the housing is metal. The soft box is 24 x24"....http://www.apug.org/forums/attachmen...1&d=1189821474http://www.apug.org/forums/attachmen...1&d=1189821888
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSCN0044.jpg   DSCN0045_1.jpg   DSCN0046_1.jpg   DSCN0047.jpg  
    Last edited by RobertP; 09-14-2007 at 09:43 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  9. #19

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    Anyone besides me remember the old Ascor system where you could daisy chain umpteen capacitor banks & dump it through the single "Sunlight" head 96,000WS?
    Heavily sedated for your protection.

  10. #20
    RobertP's Avatar
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    The UV that is required for wet plate makes the fluoro's so attractive. I compared my 1500 Mole- Richardson fresnels to the light output of the Fotodiox. And the light output is pretty close. The Moles may be a little more intense. But the fluorescents are so much cooler by leaps and bounds. So the advantage of moving them closer to the subject/model is a nice feature. I figure at this price it is not going to cost much to see the results using these banks even if I'm the guinea pig for it. I've risked a lot more for a lot less in my time.

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